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Madagascar 66%

by Omnom
Info Details
Country Iceland   
Type Semi-Dark   (66%; Batch 055)
Strain Blend   
Source Madagascar   (Ambanja)
Flavor Fruits & Flowers   
Style Mainstream      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
REDUX REVIEW: 2 bars... same origin / percentage / formulation; one released in 2014, & the other in 2017
***********************************
Madagascans, ever-resourceful, construct their traditional Valiha (a sort of tubular zither) from local bamboo & bike cables. The undisputed Hendrix of this string-instrument is Rakotosafy.

This bar cycles around a berry bush, dodging in & out of the woods, then jumps off a citrus ramp with all the ease & flow of a Rakotosafy performance.
Appearance   4.7 / 5
Color: sun-kissed orange
Surface: 2014: smooth with veins
2017: road worn
Temper: shining (even a little shine on the backside too)
Snap: ice-breaker
Aroma   7.9 / 10
2014
smoke off the roast
peanut butter fudge
caramel jam (marmalade fruits)
all topped by green banana leaf + pine needle

2017
bad, sullen locker room... sweat & hormones reeking
aerates out saps & resins
Mouthfeel   13.7 / 15
Texture: deluxe ultra-glide (nary a grain)
Melt: slow adagio movement
Flavor   45.5 / 50
2014
bites right into sweet-tart berries-burst (mostly red) -> thin bamboo veneer counter mixed with some cedar particle board -> recoils very light caramel before shooting an OJ spray to match its Color, then mango -> mild Twin-V (vetiver & vanilla) -> frangipani -> cream fill with recessed hazelnut backing -> pineapple exit

2017
pine flirting with passion fruit beneath -> marmalade of yore comes fore (orange-pineapple) -> brooding dark essence (vetiver essential oil) rubbed on cedar serves to compliment then accentuate the citrus jelly sap -> clears as ever before on pineapple juice -> hazelnut butter in the very rear folds
Quality   18.3 / 20
2014
Exuberant, gushy teen spirit of inexorable length. A bit unhinged / unbalanced, frankly, but who'll mind with Snapple® flavors like these. Just no resisting the undeniable attraction to this.

34% sugaring; a curious formulation considering that Madagascar cacáo in gen'l, & this seed selection in particular, tolerates a lot higher. Tad more cocoa mass would lend greater ballast while increasing the definition, clarity & intensity. As is, this re-enforces the island's rep for missing a big bottom end.

The technical specs are pretty transparent even though the nose & the tongue diverge over the roast (the first seems deep, the second confirms low). Taste & moreover Texture indicate a long conch (3 days at least). Positively zero astringency (i.e., the specious "green banana" euphemism of the cocoa-gurus), & any bitterness manifests as sublimated woods.

Meticulously crafted throughout… from the logo, design, card-stock packaging & paper-back foil to the tempering & last lick of flavor.

Omnom signaling all-in for the long haul.

2017
3 years on & the signals beam just as strongly. In fact, this bursts forth more strongly. A darker countenance for sure; greater gravitas. The young'un grown some with still plenty exuberance yet utterly poised & patient in the evolution.

Omnom so admirably rents Madagascan cacáo that it practically owns the island.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter

Reviewed April 28, 2014
Revised July 3, 2017

  

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