D.O.A. – hopefully an anomaly / just a bad batch. Tastes of failed technology-transfer & shabby 3rd world processing.
Appearance 4.6 / 5
|Color:||atypical for Madagascar - brooding maroon (“seeing” the roast)|
|Temper:||absorbs its shine|
|Snap:||good pitch & Marcolini’s trademark soft-to-the-touch / clean edge (interior shimmering red)|
Aroma 7.4 / 10
air, fire & wood... all the elements except water; shaped by Marcolini’s roasting style, effectively quashing the usual Madagascar citrus notes for a heavier spice tone, miraculously sustaining lightness thru an oxygen column; rumors of fruit only on the rubdown
Mouthfeel 11.2 / 15
|Texture:||desiccated & in need of the element missing in the aroma – H2O|
|Melt:||almost self-corrects the texture, goes even at the end|
Flavor 29.1 / 50
jacks-in cocoa -> quick passing fruit (sweet red date jujube) -> jackfruit dominates + musty vanilla perfume, while underneath chocolate mainlines over cedar wood -> grousing talc, worsened by cereal grain (soy too) -> at the tail of evolution... dried cranberry & green pineapple
Quality 9.4 / 20
Dark in every aspect: color, aroma, tone, flavor. A chink in Marcolini’s otherwise sterling armor. None of the beauty of ylang-ylang & sparkling acidity that so often comes off this island makes it into this bar. Delivers a shot of chocolate, more in the form of cocoa powder, fumigated in talc & dust, pointing to a combination of bad crop, poor bean selection, & improper storage; completely missing the handle, starting with a amateur inspection ‘cut’ of the beans - these should’ve been rejected. But, also, a misapplication of Marcolin’s style to an origin requiring a gentler approach. The sum feels as if working from a set formula instead of customized-processing of each different bean origin: the difference between artistry & factory.