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Rawbar

by Tava/Journée
Info Details
Country Australia   
Type Dark   (70%)
Strain Amelonado   (Amazon)
Source Vanuatu   (Santo Island)
Flavor Naked   
Style Old School      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
The Frank Hayes of Chocolates... who died of a fatal heart attack in 1923 astride his horse named Sweet Kiss (of death, no doubt) before it carried him over the finish line, the only jockey to win a race... posthumously!
Appearance   3.6 / 5
Bit of a chocolate chimp just from the looks on the outside. Unwrapped, it’s no Tarzan either.
Color: dunga dirt (morose medium brown)
Surface: scruffed ‘n shallow mold w/ pinholes backed in a lazy swale of a slab
Temper: not a spit shine, a sweat shine
Snap: craters; crumbling break
Aroma   6.9 / 10
very naring... wooded creosote, diesel & vinyl -> massive olive leaf + bay laurel -> Stilton blue -> perspires to bacon (ahhh, unroasted????)
Mouthfeel   11.7 / 15
Texture: some powder, slightly parched, & finely coarse; grates against the tongue some
Melt: lightning pace; ticks along w/ light astringent grip too (clears out cleanly though)
Flavor   42.5 / 50
a straight continuum from the Aroma, all those precursors swing into a bush of medium-grade cocoa -> bacon bits go savory for some kind of Olmec-style survivor-island molé -> plummets into chalk outlining a rubber dimension -> raw cocoa compound -> creosoate from earlier wood -> peanut begging for hazelnuts -> ice-cream bean (inga-cipo) siphons off diesel locomotive werks... strides out fern & falls over the finish line on olive leaf
Quality   16.3 / 20
An "ironiclast" that defies the norm that "raw cacáo" makes for (ironically) the deadest chocolate around.

Familiar, even comforting territory from a far-flung island that’ll work magic for those afraid of the Dark. (The more experienced/jaded hardcore in need of deep-brain stimulation from a real Tasmanian devil -- the 20 pound carnivore of bad attitude & not the Looney Tune variety Taz -- might think this is too measly, dangerously on the verge of opening up a yawning chasm.)

A near solitary dimension: simple uncomplicated cocoa. So plain... extremely little variation, geometry, or depth; just pure unleavened surface spread of baseline cocoa that raises a question about potentially suspicious labeling. Some element goes awry & amiss for the flavor tastes incompatible with un-roasted chocolate that was not encountered with this company's whole bean sample.

One or both of 2 factors operate: a) mechanically (& badly) forced-dried / fried, tantamount to a modified raw chocolate; or b) dried under a broiling sun on the side of a road with plenty of traffic-breathing gas fumes out their exhaust pipes. Either that or the ferment piles in Vanuatu get so hot that sticking a hand in there will burn it off.

Otherwise, the technique is serviceable, particularly for a company that has yet to build its foundry to forge what may be on path to the best raw bar on Earth.

ING: cocoa mass, sugar, cacáo butter

  

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