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Steinpilze mit Kastanie

by Zotter
Info Details
Country Austria   
Type Flavored   (Porcini; Chestnuts; Milk Chocolate [55% cacáo])
Strain
Source
Flavor Sugar   
Style New School      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Culinary chocolate seems all the new rage nowadays. Euros tucking piglets inside bonbons at invitation-only events hosted at 5-star hotel restaurants. Top chefs in Asia brushing cocoa on seafood, deer antlers & tiger testicles. Not to be outdone, Americans jab fondue sticks with every imaginable edible (fruit, cheese, worms, crickets, bugs, cockroaches & more) into chocolate fountains at wine bars.

Mostly opportunists hoping to cash in, hopping on the buzz trend that started... oh, 1,500 or so years ago... for a modern twist on 'everything new is instantly old again'.

All these harken back to Mayan meals scattered across their ruined cities. For instance, the ancient Maya City of Copán (Honduras) during the Classic Period (circa 450 CE) shows evidence among the middens of a móle-prototype containing animal bones (turkey & fish) with cacáo, as well as a tamale platter with cacáo.

This bar could join the pile as Candy S.N.U.F. (Serves No Useful Function) other than some landfill.
Appearance   4 / 5
Color: pink-sand
Surface: frozen flow-motion
Temper: soft shimmer
Snap: completely absent
Aroma   5.7 / 10
a wild fizz of a combo: pungent open-faced Muenster cheese sandwich slathered over porcini mushrooms (very fungal / Earthen) with sassafras & kola nut for some soda pop
Mouthfeel   12.1 / 15
Texture: velvet
Melt: tender but quick
Flavor   29.8 / 50
resinous beginning, musty too -> bright metallic streak of sweeteners (apple vinegar) hard on the heels -> tart cranberries break-thru to intensify the brilliance -> too little residual affects of the prime-players (chestnut / porcini / chocolate) -> sour grapes
Quality   10.4 / 20
Zotter practically throws the whole sink in this one.

Strangely non-complex considering the battery of ingredients, each of them pretty indistinguishable from each other by the end -- save for the cranberry -- in this sugared blob.

A 'cloy toy' thru & thru.

INGREDIENTS: raw cane sugar, cocoa butter, full cream milk powder, cocoa mass, fructose-glucose syrup, cranberries, chestnut, porcini, walnuts, rum, dairy butter, apple balsam vinegar, whey, soy, lecithin, salt, vanilla, rosemary, chili Bird's eye

Reviewed June 26, 2012

  

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