San Martin

by Ranger
Info Details
Country USA   
Type Dark   (80%; 73%; 70%)
Strain Hybrid   (+ Piura Nacional)
Source Peru   
Flavor Crossover   (individually & collectively)
Style Neo-Modern      
By now every pod-head in chocolate knows the safe word in the IFC hit Portlandia. Hint: the tree from which all chocolate derives.

One sensitive character said it even when her boyfriend slept. Ouch. Such macro-passive-aggression. Must be related to patriarchal privilege.

This company -- Ranger -- operates in Artisan Quarter, a central east side industrial district across the Willamette River in downtown Portland, OR. That growing chocolate epicenter which includes several other micro-batchers (Woodblock the most established among them). Here, 4 Rangers (2 couples who've been friends since 2004), own it equally. They still hold day jobs. This then their passion gig. Truly polyamorous.

No A-hole celeb chefs or culinary habitués. Goodwilled workers with backgrounds in tech, ops, graphics, & the Great American art form -- marketing. The group takes its name & icon from the Forest Ranger lookout tower. The symbolism shouldn't be lost on anyone. Rangers are good stewards of the land. Likewise these rangers are good stewards of cacáo, mindful of the farming practices & the people responsible for growing & cultivating it.

Their luv-in also runs a café/ retail store called Cup & Bar where the fare is made all in-house. Keep this up & there'll be wildfires even Smokey the Bear won't dare to prevent.

Contributing Editor and Deep Tasting author Rev. Ron DMC (Doctor of Meditational Chocolate) files this review.
Appearance   3.7 / 5
minimalist foil & tabbed cardboard package
Color: from pink cast (Tumbes & San Martin) to old shoe polish brown (Chulucanas)
Surface: clean as a spit...
Temper: ... shine
Snap: get set for stridulations
Aroma   7.7 / 10
wild flower honey (lovely), wooded ash-berry

more florals (including hibiscus -- its tea & petal), cherry pipe tobacco + cocoa

San Martin
huh?... another flower... someone powdered the nose here... this one crushed in spice
Mouthfeel   13.2 / 15
Texture: thick with some nap / grain
Melt: kills the calendar... all day long
Flavor   42.1 / 50
wild honey overflows from the Aroma (above) -> congeals into raisin -> backs off walnut

citrus mistress with some nuts -> sours toward cherry -> melts thru to dried cranberry & cashew (nice)

San Martin
bursting wild honey -> settles into sticky sap capturing chalky cocoa -> roasted black walnut -> cinnamon / pink peppercorn combo -> red fruited aftertaste
Quality   17.3 / 20
Solid starter bars with diligent sourcing & good barsmithing chops. Part of the 2-ingredient chocolate tribe.

Early production focuses on sourcing from Peru in order to forge relationships one country at a time. Next on the range: Haiti.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar

Reviewed April 4, 2017


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