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Sao Tome

by Hershey’s
Info Details
Country USA   
Type Dark-Milk   (70%)
Strain Amelonado   (Amazon)
Source São Tomé   
Flavor Earthen   
Style Mainstream      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
A cheap shot to describe this as ‘tatty twee’ just because it bears the label Hershey’s (really now, it’s like... is this a roast - beef or bean?). Where the Chocolatetown USA conglomerate is in over its conching machine trying to integrate San Domingo‘s manifold flavors, São Tomé presents no such problem on account of its intrinsic non-complexity.

Simple & easy does it + a few surprises. Coyly robust - a decent mass-production piece.
Appearance   4.1 / 5
Color: pale & opaque, moonlit grey ghosting inside brown (despite relatively moderate butter content; read on...)
Surface:
Temper: perfect matte
Snap: high treble audio; sheared edge
Aroma   6.9 / 10
fresh direct: coffee, cocoa, cheese funk, damp wood, red fruit spot -> aerates to cardboard
Mouthfeel   11 / 15
Texture: fractures into gripping, almost pasty-thick wads ala milk fat??
Melt: viscous
Flavor   41.4 / 50
hits w/ soft wood upfront -> weak coffee -> cocoa spice (buttered cinnamon) -> white bread & butter tone (whoa – dairy??) stripped of all heft, makes for cinnabon -> carmelizes to churro dipped in strengthened coffee + more spice (coriander & vanilla) -> distant currant & red apple so over yonder it requires binoculars -> chocolate whimper; minutely metallic after-length
Quality   17.6 / 20
Profile rounded down perhaps thru selective Dutching on a portion of the batch & a suspicious night raid, of sorts, to abduct some of the dark, replacing it with dairy. The origin’s usual forward assertiveness almost nowhere to be found & a few unusuals show up (are they conching 24/7/365). Authenticating this was questionable until reading the label closely: last among the listed ingredients: ‘milk’. Whatever the formula, a decently constructed bar. CBS ~3:4:3.

  

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