Box Chocolate Review


Info Details
Country USA   (NYC)
Style New School      
Succeeds thru a rather intuitive approach (backed by lots of bottle service, no doubt) to arrive at a similar if different point as DC Duby/Wild Sweets (who apply more scientific molecular gastronomy to their extraordinary series on ice wines). Only cavil: lose the faux-French flirtiness that gushes of those ultimate chocolate teasers… the frills & frippery from that haute chocolature headquartered in Chicago.
Presentation   4.3 / 5
button snaps
Aromas   4.1 / 5
grape punctuates
Textures/Melt   8.2 / 10
Shells: fairly thick
Centers: substantial grape reductions instead of the usual oozy pools of liquid crush
Flavor   42.8 / 50
demi-tasse pleated cups of wino dollops; generously clear & pronounced
Quality   25.7 / 30
Girlie material done well.
Couverture: Theo
Queen of the Harvest - crowded busload incl sherry, almond & a mine shaft of salt all riding on soft-paved caramel
Baci al Limone – actually sounds better than it tastes; highly balanced if segregated on an unctuous/astringent axis which, in the modern era, pretty much defines romance
Raspberry Beret – naked enough for the artist f/k/a, & w/ that little cat’s paw design on top thoroughly disorienting the up from the down like going in thru the out door… the Purple Rain-maker wouldn’t want to change a stroke
Tango Nostalgico – perhaps the best harmonized &, oddly enough, unique piece in the collection; dulce-de-leche/cacáo mosh sublimated by the amber-edged Montilla - a rarefied blend making for a cocoa bender; tremendous
Roman Holiday – awkward, forward, & as urgent as Gramsci’s analysis on cultural hegemony: Maseratis & Ferraris are smoother than glide-ssandos & before you know it you’re at 195MPH… so do as the Romans
Bacchanal – Single Provenance paradox… a dialectical synthesis that bleeds one union; very clean & clear, sings out before it screams you hit ‘the C-spot’™ Malbec – re: raisin & plum
Toffee – traditional party favor; brandy could be drawn out more
Drunken Fig – well-cured; shows imagination, innovation & individuality – all the great hallmarks of what American enterprise once stood for

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