Box Chocolate Review


Info Details
Country USA   (Grass Valley, CA)
Style Neo-Modern      
Flashes of future brilliance. As is, Dorado is still mapping out the trail in search of the real glitter. The bet: if it abandons the obvious tried & true (& loses the classical end of its spectrum – an area already over-populated, highly-competive, & saturated with skilled players) in flavor of its gut instincts & considerable imagination, it’ll get there & find it.
Presentation   3.9 / 5
standard-looking mix
Aromas   4.5 / 5
slightly favors chocolate
Textures/Melt   7.3 / 10
Shells: among the firmest around
Centers: medium gauge
Flavor   43.7 / 50
force & finesse; good overall balance / equilibrium
Quality   24.6 / 30
A line in development that’s rapidly transforming potential into performance.
Couverture: El Rey; Callebaut
Sprig – surprise element... minted caramel seemingly w/ caraway or producing that spice analogues; exceptional pairing, perhaps too herbaceous for many (easily cured by lifting cocoa a level or two; conceptual excellence
Raspberry – berry active, complete w/ pips &/or nibs; choc clearly subservient & could stand an adjustment in ratios
Mocha - thick robe snaps then almost crushes against ganache; flavor-forward, full (coffee) bean ahead
Tahitian Caramel – tractor-pull on the teeth; infused w/ Tahitian Vanilla & French Lavender Honey (dial in a little stronger?); nice drama between it & salt
Banana Rum – well-executed crowd-getter, taking lunch bag fruit + weekday alcohol & putting them thru a fining filter
Passion Fruit – clarity, so clear w/out being brassy; perhaps the best ratios in the set; excellent
Jasmine – close, really close to ideal; dropping just a touch more jasmine in the mix (tea & choc in perfect symmetry) would make all the more beguiling
4 Brothers – a template for differentiation; untraditional 4-spice, anise dominant; adding extra nibs in the ganache makes it a stud; tremendous
Varietal – solid weight... no squishy-ganache-palet-d’or; underpowered, however, for such an ingot, coming in late waves of soft reds (fruits)

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