Box Chocolate Review

J Chocolatier

Info Details
Country USA   (Washington DC)
Style Neo-Modern      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Intensity
Complexity
Impact
J presumably stands for Jane Morris. A little too sugar-happy but she definitely gets the nation’s capital off the D-block. DC now has a long-overdue Dept of Chocolate to counteract all the Federal nonsense.
Presentation   4.4 / 5
Shaker-style rustic w/ visual weight; mostly molded shells, some hand-rolled, several of them scored w/ subtle reptilian skins patterns – crocodile, lizard, alligator, etc.
Aromas   3.2 / 5
cocoa soap
Textures/Melt   7.2 / 10
Shells: medium thickness bordering on thin
Centers: soft to liquid
Flavor   45.5 / 50
w/ few exceptions, missing chocolate amplitude (having been sweetened down); however, infusions neither overpowering nor over-stated, but true... sitting nicely in the gap between French subtlety & forward American, as elements in the main fully complement one another
Quality   26.7 / 30
Among a select class of emerging American chocolatiers. Would catapult into the ranks of truly outstanding if only for greater scale & range.
Selections
Couverture: mostly El Rey (Rio Caribe); some Valrhona
Brown-Sugar Banana Caramel – all the hallmarks of pure market play/ploy; brown-sugar just rips thru banana faster & easier than a gorilla
Hibiscus & Tropical Fruit – liquid center runs hibiscus, mango, & passion fruits over Dark Chocolate caramel; contrasts combined well
Classic – dusky cocoa dust matches up w/ cream ganache taming Valrhona Manjari’s citric fruit-inflected overtones; goes cookie dough & even marshmallow toward the end, yet still manages to live up to its name
Vanilla – butter, cream, Milk & Dark Chocolates the canvas for vanilla; strictly unassuming, slightly antiseptic, simply awesome
Cinnamon – Milk Choc carries the flavor marked by deft spice accent
Honey & Star Anise – least integrated of the set, & the 1 responsible for detergent in the aromas; clover honey opposing both anise & choc
Bourbon Pecan Caramel – pecan pie from the deep south as in very south of the border; could stand a stronger pour of bourbon to offset the sugar pile – enought to grind then dissolve teeth right down to the gum line; otherwise outstanding confection
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