Box Chocolate Review


Info Details
Country USA   
Style Classic      
No rock stars in this box. Just hard working chocolate. 30 years & counting, Larry Burdick ably reps the old guard where some just bag it to rely on the fumes of their legendary past. If you're gonna stay serious, ya gotta play serious. He comes to the table with solid work production.
Presentation   4.7 / 5
'O, what has my charming knight sent me?'; simple, Shaker-style conforming to regional history; all enrobed pieces w/ the exception of The Mouse
Aromas   3.8 / 5
pastry, dairy, & fruit zest - all light, fresh (though recessed, even a little cold - & some may view presentation that way too)
Textures/Melt   8.3 / 10
Shells: semi-thin
Centers: softly dense; quick melt but not too fast, holds on well
Flavor   42.6 / 50
potent couvertures box the pal; infusions caress it, perhaps for some too evanescent - the influence of the French approach hampered, in this case, by malefactions... elements missing the clarity of the masters (e.g., Dufoux or LMDC) whose formulations call for, proportionately, even lighter additives yet possess remarkable definition thanks to superior ingredients paired deftly to their chocolate base; the net result here: subtle-muddled infusions conscripted & often overmatched by domineering couverture
Quality   25.7 / 30
When the chef-deity passed out talent to prep the stuff that'd become 'the food of the gods', Larry Burdick received sensibility, heart, & laughter (see his mice play)... this despite the sorrow of operating in a country where raw materials for his craft are less than ideal. In other words, he also got guts in the god-package.
Couverture: Felchlin, Valrhona, & Grenada Chocolate Co.
MOUSE - Burdick's signature; bombs down I-95 to the call of the beach & the house kingdom of the Mouse; no one can resist the pull of FLA... Disneyfied
TRINIDAD - Valrhona's flawed Gran Couva restored & further grounded (in a good way) by hazelnuts & Masala-type spices; absolutely & positively enhances then improves the original; excellent
ALMOND CHAMOMILE - apparently a Roman (as opposed to German or Wild) chamomile brings a beguiling apple / lemon verbena appeal to a rolling almond encased in dark
ORINICO - cowering & indistinct; needs re-development
PAVÉ - cognac & saffron the quiet subtle depth charges to what amts to a black-tie caramel dressed in Milk Choc
RICHELIEU - great balance; cherry just lays above a dark bed seamlessly embedded w/ cumin
FRAMBOISE - raspberry brass, w/ textured micro-crunch by its own seedy pips as well as pistachio bits verging on detritus, straight-bashes a Dark Chocolate that never truly recovers to catch up until the astringent grip at the finish ( Felchlin's Arriba); great change-of-pace if out-of-character for the line-up
JAFFA - strong orange in a Milk interior covered by a Dark diamond-cut shell conjures up rose & jasmine; dorm room girl perfume heating up 50 cups of bergamot
RUM RAISIN - honest w/ licorice overtones & enough rum for that closet alcoholic in the house
HAZELNUT - on-point gianduja in trad Milk topped w/ blanched almond that hits the standard

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