Box Chocolate Review

Kennedy & Wilson

Info Details
Country Australia   (Coldstream)
Style New School      
Kennedy & Wilson... hmmm... 2 ill-fated American presidents now buried in the land of Down Under-takers?

Perfect fodder when reading Sarah Vowell’s Assassination Vacation.

Put the bounty out.
Presentation   3.1 / 5
whoa... must be strict regulations governing export of chocolate from the land of Oz – comes in Tupperware™ containers straight from the school bake sale ready for burping; enrobed pieces, varying size (even w/in the same flavor) & irregular but tight fit & finish; gives down-home meaning to 'hand-made'
Aromas   2.8 / 5
candy starburst / citrus zing + perfume-scented detergent
Textures/Melt   7.4 / 10
Shells: Dairy Queen™ soft-serve ice-cream dipping
Centers: cream spread
Flavor   37.7 / 50
tips its hand - victimized by a wanting couverture gone M.I.A. &/or completely shot-up while infusions blare away, compromising equilibrium; too little tannic backbone (other than burnt edges) for these amplified infusions
Quality   19.6 / 30
Alternating between promising & rude-imentary
Couverture: Callebaut
70% - Callebaut’s “classic” vanilla-ized latex; alkalizied into 'bland' w/ burnt shadows at the back to render “authentic” cocoa flavor in a reverse scenario of ‘1 hand giveth, the other taketh away’
48% - think of a straw-hat & wicker-basket loaded w/ rubber kick balls + a Milk Duds™ wax texture; beach volleyball fans will appreciate the ‘savory umami’ getting kicked by sand-in-the-face taste

Cat’s Tongue - “award-winning” feline anatomical parts; never having French-kissed a kitten... but basically that D.O.A. Callebaut 70% laced in lemon myrtle (cross leakage in the box or added infusion?) heads straight to the morgue; decomposition lingers, however, for those necrophiliacs
Basil - sweet basil ‘n dark cream as couverture offers nil-to-ill support; otherwise well-proportioned in its balance points
Lemon Myrtle - antiseptic strength; another example of the infusion way out on a window ledge without any chocolate scaffolding or even a safety rope to fall back on

Reviewed July 2009

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