Box Chocolate Review

Jean-Paul Hévin

Info Details
Country France   (Paris)
Style Classic      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Intensity
Complexity
Impact
Force & finesse; subtle muscle. Too strong & forward to be sublime compared to confreres Genin & Linxe. Which makes him the Bonaparte from them... & all others.
Presentation   3.9 / 5
deceiving: petite box & cut pieces belie the dynamite inside
Aromas   4.6 / 5
very apparent & self-revealing
Textures/Melt   8.5 / 10
Shells: thin
Centers: generally yielding; slightly greater than 1:1 ratio
Flavor   48.3 / 50
runs the gamut w/ ease; paints wielding & mixing every color on the palette
Quality   29.6 / 30
Obnoxious culinary pedigree, so rich with options J-P H has to choose what to do, which he masters with flawless aplomb where most just dither in confusion.
Selections
Couverture: Valrhona
Alba (Milk Praline) – crunch that stands up & offers true resistance unlike the many collapsing sugar pastes out there
Manaon (Milk Caramel) – so deep & dark it tastes aged, if that’s possible
Milk Pistachio Marzipan – makes marzipan look good instead of just a dirty word
Octave (Dark Cassis) – cassis tightly integrated into the chocolate base, yet offset to form a dual complex, & still they both could be from a single botanical; amazing labyrinth of flavor
Cao – un-infused dark takes on little added value in its handling
Dark Caramel Marzipan - bi-level construction: upper story marzipan supported by soft salted caramel foundation in a house united
Gemme – dark roasted bacon / smoked salmon aroma is actually China tea; the closest thing to chocolate meat in existence; intense & incredible
Costa Rica – 3 different orange extracts nearly fuse up a Chambord liqueur; frou-frou for sure but flirting that actually leads to sumthin’
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