Box Chocolate Review

Pierre Hermé

Info Details
Country France   (Paris)
Style Classic      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Intensity
Complexity
Impact
The Philosopher Chef who very well may be the Picasso of Pastry, which only makes him the George Crumb of Cocoa, so let him just bake cake. What’s he doing in chocolate... other than diminishing it? An ego that knows no bounds.
Presentation   3 / 5
faux haute chocolature
Aromas   4.2 / 5
decent heady mix
Textures/Melt   8.6 / 10
Shells: thin
Centers: exceptional
Flavor   37.1 / 50
inconsequential
Quality   19.8 / 30
Hermé comes 1st; Cacáo 2nd
Selections
Couverture: Valrhona
Absolument Chocolat (Caramel – Gingembre – Framboise) – lady sticks; batons of subtle filling leaving the chocolat to speak in crunchy café talk
Chocolat au Lait Cannelle & Amandes – désolé, rien (translation: you gotta be frickin’ kidding... you charge money for this?)
Noir au Citron et a la Bergamote – Windex (antiseptic window washer); for those who like to get wiped
Azur noir bar w/ a padded ganache of yuzu & grapefruit; patisserie piece; goopy goofy goody; confiserie “accent ague”
Noir et Noisettes Grilles – throw enough filberts into the mix & some nuts stick; hi-brow skank
Pure Origine Madagascar – latex; steady rumble of nut shell, artichoke then berry wash; overall decent
Chocolat Amer aux Eclats de Feves de Cacao – respectable w/o renown; messy break; sugary beyond its 75% cocoa content; conventional wax & wane
Noir Amer Fortissima – breakthrough of sorts for Pierre; aroma-free but tough architecturally that yields up a formidable getaway taste borrowed, in all likelihood, from Pralus
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