Box Chocolate Review

Patrick Roger

Info Details
Country France   (Paris)
Style Neo-Modern      
In some ways, the Domori of boxed chocolates, working very close to the elements without overweening interference. Apparently Patrick Roger produces only good pieces; the choice here is between best & better. Only caveat: beware of reliance on fruit infusions & marzipan. Otherwise, greatness comes in small sizes.
Presentation   4.2 / 5
wild mélange of primal, classical, & whimsical that ultimately proves unassuming & underwhelming... to catch you unawares
Aromas   4.4 / 5
chocolate positive
Textures/Melt   8.6 / 10
Shells: slightly thicker than many of his French confreres
Centers: contrastively soft
Flavor   46.9 / 50
raw materials ring true / sing thru
Quality   28.7 / 30
Playful yet exacting
Couverture: Valrhona
Harmonie – salted soft caramel cut by orange blossoms inside a White Chocolate dome; strong starter piece
Desir – layered praline
Allegorie – carmelized almond haystack tossed in dried fruit; Frenchly-quaint, until the back bite sensation turns real
Douceur – bait ‘n switch pistache on the crown hiding marzipan inside; very frenchy
Egerie – almond praline that skies & scrapes; excellent
Syracuse – orange sponge
Ceylon – pure & simple w/ soft butter honey core
Yucatan – torrified coffee riding a sweet undertow
Cinnamon - true, almost tender, very together
Maracaibo – super blender from where else…
Valparaiso – finer than any key lime
Tendresse – gianduja supreme
Borneo – sesame rice cracker; tastes better than it sounds
Jacarepagua – whatevayacall the watchamacallit, a fruit basket carried on the head
Zanzibar – almond spludge
Impertinence – citron tea time; irrelevant
Caracus – passion fruit from the spleen

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