Box Chocolate Review

Patrick Roger

Info Details
Country France   (Paris)
Style Neo-Modern      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Intensity
Complexity
Impact
In some ways, the Domori of boxed chocolates, working very close to the elements without overweening interference. Apparently Patrick Roger produces only good pieces; the choice here is between best & better. Only caveat: beware of reliance on fruit infusions & marzipan. Otherwise, greatness comes in small sizes.
Presentation   4.2 / 5
wild mélange of primal, classical, & whimsical that ultimately proves unassuming & underwhelming... to catch you unawares
Aromas   4.4 / 5
chocolate positive
Textures/Melt   8.6 / 10
Shells: slightly thicker than many of his French confreres
Centers: contrastively soft
Flavor   46.9 / 50
raw materials ring true / sing thru
Quality   28.7 / 30
Playful yet exacting
Selections
Couverture: Valrhona
Harmonie – salted soft caramel cut by orange blossoms inside a White Chocolate dome; strong starter piece
Desir – layered praline
Allegorie – carmelized almond haystack tossed in dried fruit; Frenchly-quaint, until the back bite sensation turns real
Douceur – bait ‘n switch pistache on the crown hiding marzipan inside; very frenchy
Egerie – almond praline that skies & scrapes; excellent
Syracuse – orange sponge
Ceylon – pure & simple w/ soft butter honey core
Yucatan – torrified coffee riding a sweet undertow
Cinnamon - true, almost tender, very together
Maracaibo – super blender from where else…
Valparaiso – finer than any key lime
Tendresse – gianduja supreme
Borneo – sesame rice cracker; tastes better than it sounds
Jacarepagua – whatevayacall the watchamacallit, a fruit basket carried on the head
Zanzibar – almond spludge
Impertinence – citron tea time; irrelevant
Caracus – passion fruit from the spleen
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