Info Details
Country France   
Type Brut   (75%)
Strain Criollo   (mix)
Source Madagascar   (Sambirano Valley)
Flavor Earthen   (Twang backing)
Style Industrial      
Murder in Pinewood: under-achiever thru overkill.
Appearance   3.7 / 5
Color: dirty copper
Surface: rugged, worn
Temper: distressed jean look
Snap: jagged
Aroma   7.1 / 10
slaughterhouse suspect: pewter / ceramic / stone -> earth leather –> small berry along the break
Mouthfeel   13.6 / 15
Texture: micron smooth
Melt: effortless
Flavor   39.7 / 50
drops a biscuit to soak up acid -> star fruit riding the pines (pineapple, pinewood, pine cone + its offshoot – juniper) idles momentarily... slow forest chocolate tannin to burnt bitter -> strong citric berry shower (kumquat as cumsquat then cranberry cocktail [gin base]) –> cream from the opening somehow sustains itself & settles back-in to conduct charred chocolate to its walnut end seated in Hades
Quality   14 / 20
Pralus has such a superb handle on the same bean, crop, & origin with the uncompromising Le 100% bar where his aggressive style-to-the-varietal, at an oft-punishing percentage, is perfectly suited - a nirvanic match in fact. Here his grip slips. An example of his signature deep roasting technique becoming a fatal fetish. Given the sugar assist, it’s unnecessary to roast so firmly; all that bright, promising yellow fruit turns jaundice under the pressure.

NOTE: Pralus is scheduled to start harvesting cacáo from his owns the estate on Nosy Bé, Madagascar in 2011/12. Until then, he sources his cocoa from Sambirano Valley growers who cultivate Criollos within an admixture of other varietals.

Reviewed Autumn, 2009


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