Impact
Appearance 4.6 / 5
| Color: | golden brown |
| Surface: | slightly marred gives it rugged-ruffian swagger |
| Temper: | matte all the way |
| Snap: | soft w/ low thud; crumble cake along the break |
Aroma 8.2 / 10
rich filbert oil massages a soft florid-white petal shimmering in a plume of cocoa dust
Mouthfeel 12.7 / 15
| Texture: | powdered sugar & silk |
| Melt: | tender turbo |
Flavor 41 / 50
clean & clear sugar against hazelnut spread -> dappled whites of Vestri’s Aliseo (cherimoya, starfruit) -> juices up chocolate pineapple -> hazelnut fusion disappears faster than Casper the Ghost
Quality 17.3 / 20
Unique variation on the standard. White fruit inherent in the cacáo replaces white milk (Milk Chocolate being the usual base for gianduja).
Hence, overall light for the category, with none of the traditional caramel heaviness & pyroclastic flows. Instead, fruit ‘n nut laden with much greater clarity & subtlety.
Beyond the conceptual formulation, however, the downside is far too sugar-prone (approximately 50%), robbing the bar of unctuous depth & angles, making it too thin a spread across the surface of the palate.
ING: hazelnut paste, cocoa mass, sugar, cacáo butter, vanilla, soy lecithin
Reviewed Summer 2009
Hence, overall light for the category, with none of the traditional caramel heaviness & pyroclastic flows. Instead, fruit ‘n nut laden with much greater clarity & subtlety.
Beyond the conceptual formulation, however, the downside is far too sugar-prone (approximately 50%), robbing the bar of unctuous depth & angles, making it too thin a spread across the surface of the palate.
ING: hazelnut paste, cocoa mass, sugar, cacáo butter, vanilla, soy lecithin
Reviewed Summer 2009