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Info Details
Country Madagascar   
Type Dark   (amost Brut-al; 70%)
Strain Hybrid   
Source Madagascar   (Sambirano Valley)
Flavor Earthen   
Style Rustic      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Morphs a beautiful maiden into a burning witch which means the beans in this bar died twice: once during fermentation, a second time roasting inside the charnel house.
Appearance   3.3 / 5
Color: dark titian
Surface: scuffed & dusted
Temper: semi-flat
Snap: on the mark for 70% (high & tight); sanded edge w/ early signs of bloom
Aroma   7.4 / 10
what does death in Madagascar smell like? Pretty good actually: roasted up coffee-hazelnut -> peripheral cocoa husks & dried coconut -> butter-soft leather; again, none of the usual Mad suspects (chert & citric fruit) except a lite glaze of litchi
Mouthfeel   10.9 / 15
Texture: clumpen; some small grain too
Melt: hypo-kinetic; astringent grip
Flavor   35.3 / 50
drops in a brief sugar date -> gently charred cocoa pwdr mixes w/ quartz silica (beautiful) -> bitter vs. acid quarrel in the back-seat while bobbing hazelnut brings its oil forth to calm down the decisive winner... the bitter victor -> residual calcium-rich baobob resin -> browns out a brownie
Quality   10.6 / 20
All the signs & problems plaguing its 75% sib, further aggravated by a roast that over-shot the Maillard Reactions deep into charred territory, burning off most of Madagascar’s prized acids in a bitter dual. The bar-smiths at Madécasse must’ve felt emboldened by what an extra gram of fat & sugar will do to compensate for the ills in their 75% release, & so scorched these beans even hotter, if that’s possible. Still, it allows for that beautifully constrastive moment at the beginning when quartz crystal & lit ashes glisten up against each other to fire the memory.

ING: cocoa mass, sugar, cacáo butter; CBS (Cocoa mass-Butter-Sugar ratio) 2:3:2

Reviewed Spring 2009

  

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