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Info Details
Country USA   
Type Semi-Dark   (70%)
Strain Hybrid   
Source Panama   
Flavor Fruits & Flowers   (along w/ Naked)
Style Mainstream      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Grapes distill the easy-vice of wine compared to chocolate’s hard-virtue from cacáo. And Theo fought for this one: producing quite a lot from just a little.
Appearance   4.8 / 5
more visual sex from Theo
Color: deep magenta
Surface: unblemished save for spider veins on the back
Temper: soft gloss
Snap: lilts up; slightly coarse & porous on the break
Aroma   7.6 / 10
closed furniture warehouse: leather, wood, vinyl, wax then finished w/ a copal varnish -> opens slightly on a grain of cinnamon -> mildly smoked coconut shells
Mouthfeel   10.9 / 15
Texture: dry, mimicking the Flavor
Melt: evenly disintegrates to stringent end
Flavor   40.8 / 50
dried cocoa mix runs the entire length -> embedded apple tucked under -> sugar apple -> sweet sop -> white sapote... all rising fruits of custard dimension -> fig + vanilla forms a confluence w/ chocolate -> plaintain butter compote -> pings away copal-cocoa -> dirt landing
Quality   16.7 / 20
Classic “Panama-Dutch” cocoa quality. Theo really comes true with its approach, all parameters level to the varietal & its origin to maximize an otherwise unspectacular if winky bean, & get the most out of its potential; a sub-specialty of this company – optimizing humble breeds – as it did with Ivory Coast. Sweet balance too, reflecting off the CBS (Cocoa Mass/Butter/Sugar ratio): 7::8::6.

Doubtful anyone can ask for more as this bar. Various subtle & unsubtle ways from unwavering in its constant cocoa throughout those thin-tissues of fruit accents... pretty much covers the spectrum currently in Panama. Even the conche for the Texture is type-appropriate: any further handling would be too aggressive & just strip the genes down to fold the flavor flags (half-mast as they are).

ING: cocoa mass, sugar, cacáo butter, vanilla

Reviewed 8/09/09

  

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