Info Details
Country USA   
Type Dark   (74%)
Strain Hybrid   
Source Madagascar   (Sambirano Valley)
Flavor Twang   
Style New School      
Theo likes to be the Mr. Natural of the chocolate world, that mystic guru in R. Crumb’s cartoon with a cult following who spouts that salvation can be found in living naturally. A combination of dark magic & cosmic light, wisdom & chicanery, Mr. Natural sez ‘use the right tool for the job’.

Start with good cacáo seeds, for instance, which this bar fails to do. Instead, these are ‘vita-beans’ that go Up in Flames.

Appearance   5 / 5
another Theo bombshell
Color: light auburn brown
Surface: A-list beauty
Temper: soft-gloss
Snap: good snarl; cliff drop on the edge wall
Aroma   7.3 / 10
the atypical dark side of Mad-ness: leather, loam, & louvelli palm -> tobacco-clove ionized by ocean breeze & a drop of sour sorrel before sticky green & white fruits drift thru for a balsamic sweet-spot
Mouthfeel   9.1 / 15
Texture: dry grit & zaftig
Melt: staggers; astringent grip
Flavor   30.7 / 50
sweet Cab to Port Sherry -> stringent minerality the valve that controls the flow toward amorphous fruit-bearing acids -> a drunk alcoholic & hits further bottom... fleeting vanilla disguised as chocolate -> vitamins + talc the capstone... juniper berry in the after math, followed by white currants
Quality   11.2 / 20
Poor definition. Belongs to that class that hews Madagascar with a firm, occassionally inauspicious roast (Pralus, Chocovic, Marcolini) vs. the dainty types who caress it lightly (Amedei, Domori, & Patric).

Similar to Soma’s M.O., a dark roast compensated by moderate conche, but here a lackluster crop plus a ferment cycle of evidently short sweatings hastens all those exaggerated effects of alcohol & astringency that suppress the alert clarity in Theo’s Mad 65, making this at 9% less sugar, ironically more bowdlerized.

ING: cocoa mass, sugar, cacáo butter, vanilla; CBS (Cocoa mass / Butter / Sugar) 14:17:11

Reviewed 8/4/09


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