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Info Details
Country Austria   
Type Milk Chocolate   (40%)
Strain Hybrid   
Source Panama   (Talamanca; Bocas del Toro)
Flavor Earthen   
Style New School      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Zotter the chocolate radical.

Lots of money flows thru the Panama canal. But of all the wealth, the indigene population gets it & feels it the least. So in solidarity they’ve discovered cacáo for themselves which requires a simple, caring hand & knowledge of the surrounding environment. Because it thrives among biodiversity, it helps protect traditional cultivation in the forests.

Those cacáo forests, V.S. Naipaul wrote, are settings for otherworldly fairytales – mysteriously dark, wooded landscapes with shafts of sunrays, almost lunar in their light.

The milk in this bar comes from opposite heights: Tyrolean cows ambling like unicorns while grazing on mountainside meadows over in Europe.

Put ‘em together & picture Zotter imitating the Gloved-One fronting Van Morrison’s Band... &, hit it – ‘everybody’s Moonwalking in this SunMilk Chocolate’.
Appearance   4.5 / 5
Color: oh man, classic tan
Surface: textured vinyl
Temper: soft lotion w/ some fat globule separation
Snap: 40%... who’s kidding who? sounds-off in the low 60s; some striations along the break wall to confirm Temper
Aroma   8 / 10
1st snort – plodding in vanilla-caramel; then the cows amble down into deep mocha toffee -> sniffs of straw & grass wrapped around their hooves -> tiramisu top
Mouthfeel   14.2 / 15
Texture: heavy yet hyper-smooth & mouthwatering
Melt: long glide
Flavor   46 / 50
bathes in pure cream caramel -> perspires salt & in a surprise reverse-motion bends butterscotch toward simple cocoa butter -> dilates oil-roasted almonds & cashews -> vanilla between their stop gaps -> slides over a skin of tiramisu -> trace mineral (calcium) at the back
Quality   18.1 / 20
Dubious choice to subjegate this already mild origin (Panama), especially in a lowly 40% Milk Choc format. Doubly so that cacáo butter outweighs cocoa mass in the fornulation. Add in a healthy dose of vanilla & stronger-than-usual dairy cows to cast ever more doubts.

A BIG Milk Chocolate – straight & honest yet bold & novel – that eclipses its ~40% sugar count. No wild note signatures. Just deep-taste cured in a hotter roasting temp to max this bean, complimented by an intense but short (15 or so hour) conche.

Simultaneously draws out the elements & melds them into a compound. Zotter then salts it away... literally (see ingredients).

ING: raw cane sugar, cacáo butter, full cream milk pwdr (21%), cocoa mass, vanilla, salt

Reviewed Summer 2010

  

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