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Hamakua Cacáo

by Madre
Info Details
Country USA   
Type Beans   
Strain Hybrid   
Source Hawai'i USA   (Hamakua; Menezes' Estate)
Flavor Earthen   
Style Classic      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Theobroma cacao -- 'food of the Gods'

Hamakua -- "breath of the Gods"

Hamakua cacáo -- pure 808 (area code for Hawai'i)
Appearance   3.7 / 5
Color: light ferric brown
Surface: medium-large, flat seeds
Temper: frosted (husked)
Snap: n/a
Aroma   7.9 / 10
film developer (acetic acid) in beer (barley & hops) -> airs out cocoa, volcano & kola
Mouthfeel   13.6 / 15
Texture: pliable
Melt: fine gruel
Flavor   47 / 50
Mona Loa mocha with banana back -> green elements set in (vines, guinea grass & tea) -> light white fruit (atemoya & rambutan) escorted by a background bitter to simulate bitter melon (a tropical fruit aka 'bitter gourd')-> umami with tremendous minerality -> potted soil -> bagasse-to-rum closer -> porcini after-length
Quality   19.3 / 20
Hamakua sits above Hilo on the windward side (northeastern coastline) of the Big Island. Once covered with sugarcane, it now nurses some fledgling cacáo which, except for the occasional lava flows, feels right at home amidst its lush rain forests & lovely waterfalls.

Deft control. Less acidified than Shark's Hawaiian Cacao, more grounded. Cultivated on Tom Menezes' estate who's earning a reputation as the best post-harvester around. Indeed, very cleanly fermented & well-turned in the process.

Reviewed February 6, 2012

  

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