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Info Details
Country Austria   
Type Flavored   (Whisky; 70% cacáo-content)
Strain
Source
Flavor Crossover   
Style Classic      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
The great American botanical (Theobroma cacáo) meets the Scottish 'water of life' (regal whisky).

Year ago, starting in 2004, the C-spot® hoisted weekly chocolate flights at The Brandy Library in Manhattan's Tribeca district attended by local chefs & regulars (thank you, Flavian, Evan & the crew). It discovered then what this bar re-confirms now. Namely, that chocolate & double or triple distillates meld spectacularly into a confluence of the highest order. (Recommendation: imbibe first to allow the vapors to initialize & infuse the melt.)

Both give themselves up to become so manifold it requires calling on that most original English voice to take root in the New World -- Walt Whitman -- who encapsulated the obliteration of ego- unto meta-self with cosmic sensory overload in Section 51 of "Song of Myself":

“I am large, I contain multitudes”


Appearance   4.4 / 5
Color: a chestnut beauty
Surface: bit roughed up & rugged (especially the underside which bears the enrober's tread marks)
Temper: ripples & shudders
Snap: craggy as the Scottish highlands themselves
Aroma   8.9 / 10
color theme continues in the fragrance: sweet chestnut cream & aged chestnut wood finish -> breathes out distilled citrus mash (like an 25-year old Glennmorangie) + cocoa-blossom vapors -> (forested & mossy along the break-edge wall)
Mouthfeel   13.2 / 15
Texture: medium-gauge shell of a frame against a mousse-smooth interior
Melt: hydro as the finest smoke
Flavor   47.6 / 50
wild cherry-peat Milk Chocolate (what a boggling start) -> shifts quickly to a mellow fruit-cake compound besotted in alcohol -> old rum aspects -> oak tannins hold back the oncoming tide with true dark cask -> spectacular crush as the levee walls collapse, flooding the passages (olfactory, retro-olfactory & practically every bodily orifice) with maritime malt & vanilla in the wake -> damp woods empanel a library of flavors (seaweed, peat-moss, honey, prunes &, oddly, dried apricots, chocolate-ether, hickory nuts, + spicy-sweet reminiscences of some good 18-year old Dalmore 66-proof) -> Sauterne & rambutan wash over a caramel exit -> warm afterglow
Quality   17.8 / 20
If Coppeneur's Highland bar left any shred of doubt whatsoever about the preternatural symbiosis between Cacáo & Whisky, Zotter obliterates it in dispatching this distilled masterwork (to the pity of poor wine & beer combos).

A 'chocolate burn-off' (considering the hard liquor) pitting these two bars against one another seems apt since they're well-matched. Both contain a drop or two of milk; some vanilla; & a glucose sweetener. Hmmm, suspicious formulations. Chocolate espionage at work?

The main difference: Coppeneur adds chili pepper to its mix but that appears as a subtle (even extraneous) accent rather than any searing aggression. Zotter's selection creates plenty of radial warmth without the need to resort to peppered heat.

The other distinction between them: generally superior ingredients here. Zotter employs a couverture that affects more synergy than Coppeneur's.

He measures twice / pours once for near-perfection in a marked improvement from his topped-off Marc de Champagne. 10% Whisky in this formulation sounds overbearing except the fine grade Scotch pairs with a solid confection to counter, proving the motto luceo non urn (shine, no burn).

Finally, a key element here is the salt, harkening back to seas lashing the whisky as it just amplifies the marriage of flavors.

In sum, this possesses greater overall arc & mesh.

More than a bar but a brilliant dram of chocolate. And a stud.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, whisky, cocoa butter, fructose-glucose syrup, milk, butter, salt, vanilla

Reviewed July 19, 2012

  

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