Project Reserva

by Kerchner
Info Details
Country USA   
Type Dark   (70%; Batch 35)
Strain La Red   
Source Dominican Republic   (Los Pajones, María Trinidad Sánchez Province)
Flavor Crossover   (Fruits/Flowers x Twang)
Style Classic      
During a recent conference of a global cacáo project, its board of directors kept framing their mission in conventional chocolate terms until yours truly pointed out that "you're not in the business of chocolate exclusively; you're in the field of int'l relations."

Charles Kerchner represents a prime exemplar. Ex-Peace Corps, Ph.D. in agriculture, commodity trader & chocolate maker, he spent some formative years between the D.R. & the USA.

The result of it all is crafted into this bar called Project Reserva. Aka 'chocolate diplomacy'.
Appearance   3.4 / 5
Color: some blush in this La Red
Surface: chips, bubbles, voids, et. al.
Temper: temperamental
Snap: a wise cracker
Aroma   7.8 / 10
a library of hushed tones (peanuts & leather back upholstery) + studied woods (smoked vanilla oak & mahogany) interrupted by a cigarette break that blows out a formidable puff of cocoa
Mouthfeel   12.3 / 15
Texture: soft
Melt: fragile
Flavor   43.1 / 50
thin reds (strawberry) in & around chocolate -> tapioca, the by-product of melting butter -> girding tannin -> granadilla dodges in & throughout -> resolves to a wooden character with a walnut veneer -> exits tell-tale La Red rum (the back flush from earlier citrus) -> chocolate-filbert in the aft-length
Quality   16.7 / 20
This winter, Charles Kerchner plans to harvest exclusive selections from the Reserva Privada Zorzal (translated to "Bicknell's Thrush Private Reserve"). In the meanwhile he taps this La Red, the trade-name for a hodge-pod of cacáos culitvated by the Guacanejo co-op in The Dominican Republic.

Although they subdue the more feral traits of this cacáo, Kerchner employs both cocoa butter & vanilla to good use for a well-mannered contour. Nicely tactile too; the texture very precarious yet enduring.

A bar for Kerchner to grow on.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, vanilla, cocoa butter

Reviewed October 1, 2012


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