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Carenero 70%

by Franceschi
Info Details
Country Venezuela   
Type Dark   (70%; Batch 120806)
Strain Carenero   
Source Venezuela   (Estado Miranda; Barlovento)
Flavor Spices & Herbs   
Style Classic      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
On the outside, this bar looks like Lois Lane; a thin waif of an appetizer plate.

Bite into it & the mouth capes open to a big taste. Not quite Superman but a precocious kid that grows on you.

Appearance   4.1 / 5
Color: maroon
Surface: every imperfection know to choc (dust, flakes, micro cracks, voids, swirls, light bloom) & yet impervious to 'em all
Temper: good shellac
Snap: thinly veiled silencer
Aroma   8.6 / 10
savory appetizer: Carenero noted for its spices but this tilts in a unique direction for the varietal -- olive leaf & oregano oil drizzled on toasted bread crumbs (graham crackers) underpinned in supple chocolate -> those herbs transform into tobacco & warm nuts
Mouthfeel   13.5 / 15
Texture: soft suede
Melt: oh-so-patient
Flavor   45.2 / 50
beautiful cocoa on a wooden counter (bamboo) -> brief plantain, then onto subtle fruit (papaya) that accordions into persimmon -> nuts 'n spices take over the progression (raw filbert + tonka-vanilla-nutmeg)... mite stringent (that persimmon FX)... holds its poise thru to a chocolate end point with a pecan finish, followed by walnut hull & tobacco leaf
Quality   18 / 20
Highly tailored. The kind of bar which entrains tasting rather than eating... pick a piece of wood floating in the river & follow it downstream, keeping constantly on it, without getting ahead of the current. This, then, the way chocolate should be taken: at the pace of the melt.

Generally stout in character though never overbearing or prickly as the tannins stay curbed by sugar in the conch. Then further softened -- perceptually -- by that felt-like Texture, a veritable C-spa for kissy chocolate lipids.

Other than that, precious little bravado or 'wow-factor'; just abled & accomplished to earn respect.

In Postmodernism where vulgarity tries to pass for irony, Franceschi makes chocolate genuine again.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass & sugar; CBS (Cocoa mass / Butter / Sugar ratio): ~6:6:5

Reviewed October 15, 2012

  

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