Patiño Angel

by CariBeans
Info Details
Country Costa Rica   
Type Brut   (72%; Lot #013-0001)
Strain Matina   
Source Costa Rica   
Flavor Crossover   (Fruits/Flowers x Earthen)
Style Rustic      
... til hell freezes over

Well, apparently it has... in this bar, for patinar means 'ice-skate' in Spanish, in a battle of the black angels (see Flavor section below).

As everyone knows, getting there ain't so bad.

Getting out? Just pop in piehole & let it thaw... all the way down the chute.
Appearance   3.9 / 5
Color: opaque gray
Surface: never a Caribeans strong suit
Temper: cowering
Snap: muffled
Aroma   7.6 / 10
lowrider -- cocoa & compost barely get off the mat... raisin lurking about with tobac -> burlap & banana leaf
grows woodsome
Mouthfeel   11.9 / 15
Texture: disaggregates into separate melting icicles
Melt: slight grain + significant stringency
Flavor   44.6 / 50
slides in black raisin... full, dry & plump -> counters black olive, bitter & strong -> slowly curls to a nut tranversing from roasted pili to paradise cream (aka 'monkey pot') nuts (think wild almond)
Quality   15.8 / 20
Paul Johnson of CariBeans sourced the cacáo for this bar from the Kekoldi Indigenous Reserve, an expanse of some 9,000 acres in the hills behind Puerto Viejo where 1,800 residents belonging to the Bribri & Cabecar families live. He has to hike 3 hours or so on foot because it's the only way to reach them.

Theobroma cacáo fields passed down for generations grow on a coastal ridge at 500 to 600 feet above sea level, significantly higher than cacáo in the surrounding plains that comprise several other CariBeans bars. In keeping with the landscape, & notwithstanding the perceptible shortcomings in fermenting & conching, here's a bar from CariBeans that rises above flatliner status in flavor as well..

One of the most stark & simple contrasts in all of chocolate. The 'A' to 'B' progression from raisin to olive -- both black to be sure yet so bold, dramatic, & graphic -- reflects the difference between front-loaded sugar & bitter back tannins.

Cacáo from these parts bears a characteristic smoke trait which readily transfers to the end flavor, especially at the very finish.

A bit rough-hewn but worth it.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, raw sugar

Reviewed March 6, 2013


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