Medagla
by Friis Holm
		Impact
		
				
Dyslexics might re-arrange the letters of this bar's name to read 'medulla' & shudder to think that it tastes of some grey-matter brain-tissue splattered about.
Fear not: unlike a few others in Friis-Holm's suite of Nicaraguan chocolates, this one has some pith. And probably deserves a medal for courage.
		Fear not: unlike a few others in Friis-Holm's suite of Nicaraguan chocolates, this one has some pith. And probably deserves a medal for courage.
Appearance   4.3 / 5 
			| Color: | off-red opium | 
| Surface: | flush solid | 
| Temper: | the dimmer on the light switch set to medium-low | 
| Snap: | plunks the test | 
Aroma   8.1 / 10
			
what momentarily smells of over-fermentation & smoke-dried (a hambone essentially) blows-up a moraberry jam sweet-spot -> rubber padding underneath
			Mouthfeel   13.5 / 15
			| Texture: | ultra glide | 
| Melt: | appreciable length | 
Flavor   41.4 / 50
			
light fruiting carries over from the Aroma in the guise of jaltomato -> biscuit -> another aromatic, rubber  -> black unsweet fig -> licorice with back bitter finger -> both pimento & Mexican pepper leaves, + nasturtium -> thick morro seeds aka Jicaro (Crescentia alata) syrup -> stewed sapote -> stringent grip-hold at the close
			Quality   15.5 / 20
			
Yet another in a line of Xoco Gourmet's catalog. In the last few years the venture, based on a tech investment model, drew up plans to proliferate the landscape with literally millions of seedlings, grafts & clones in Central America, perhaps to the detriment of traditional cacáo tree stocks. Total production goal: 4.4 million trees between Honduras, Nicaragua & Guatemala.Some better than others, most however taste repetitive enough to stretch -- indeed, pardon the pun, strain -- the definition of varietal. Like people giving each of their fingernails a pet name. K... please, no messages from manicurists & pedicure salons explaining how sensitive each nail bed & cuticle is; that they've individualized feelings which respond to TLC. Understood.
A dark yet inviting 70%. Somewhat stunted (compounds that never really go anywhere) though it develops... however haltingly (no thoroughbred at any rate; neither genetically nor gastronomically). Valiant in the face of such challenges, it cuts a relatively cohesive & compatible profile.
INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter
Reviewed July 18, 2013
		
		
		