Info Details
Country USA   
Type Dark   (75%)
Strain Ceylan   (Amazon)
Source Mexico   (Soconusco)
Flavor Crossover   (Naked; Earthen; Twang)
Style Retro-American      
From the legendary area of Soconusco (Xoconochco), home to the Mokaya (“People of the Corn” ironically), among the original cultivators of cacáo (1800-1400 BC; pre-dating the Olmecs by centuries), & where later contending powers waged wars to control the territory because it was revered as the source of the finest quality cacáo – notably pure Criollos. The Mexìcâs (Aztecs) made it the crown-jewel of their empire, despite its southwest location well outside their own central territory up north (which was both arid & elevated, two factors making it difficult to grow cacáo themselves, leaving them high & dry). Premium ancient groves have virtually vanished but rumors circulate of high-performing old Criollo growing as ornamentals in the backyards around Xoconochco.

This bar starts out a classic throwback, with heirloom traces, heightening expectations that, alas, devolve into later introductions of hybrids & imports (the obvious ‘Matina’ strain from Costa Rica) which influence the balance of the length.

Still, a good bar with a fleeting memory built-in of how-it-might’ve-been... plus a lasting reminder that ‘never again’ in this situation is the same as forever.
Appearance   5 / 5
more A&B-the-CofD (see San José del Tambo)
Color: scarlet brown (anthocyanins at work)
Surface: Soconusco
Temper: show ‘n tell
Snap: sharp & clean
Aroma   8.3 / 10
monster cinnamon cherry blossom overlays balsam wood & simple chocolate -> achiote underneath grassy savanna -> wax & near-beer on the surround
Mouthfeel   10.4 / 15
Texture: waxen & knobby
Melt: uneven, turns to thin liquid
Flavor   41.7 / 50
breaks light on pure-fab chocolate -> troubles into sub-soil -> light dirt -> dusts up cocoa which runs entire length -> red apparition (from the aromatic) -> spice streak (cinnamon & cardamom) -> splinters minor vegetal stalk to form basis for green pineapple, mounting to tobacco leaf &, finally, peaks astringent green olive on the out-take
Quality   16.5 / 20
Other than texture, well-processed, clean & clear flavors. Relatively extended ferment & light roast align with an emerging New American style that approaches, though in this particular case barely avoids, alcohol & balsamic.

ING: cocoa mass, sugar, cacáo butter; CBS ~4:4:3


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