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Info Details
Country USA   
Type Dark   (75%)
Strain Ceylan   (Amazon)
Source Mexico   (Soconusco)
Flavor Crossover   (Naked; Earthen; Twang)
Style Retro-American      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
From the legendary area of Soconusco (Xoconochco), home to the Mokaya (“People of the Corn” ironically), among the original cultivators of cacáo (1800-1400 BC; pre-dating the Olmecs by centuries), & where later contending powers waged wars to control the territory because it was revered as the source of the finest quality cacáo – notably pure Criollos. The Mexìcâs (Aztecs) made it the crown-jewel of their empire, despite its southwest location well outside their own central territory up north (which was both arid & elevated, two factors making it difficult to grow cacáo themselves, leaving them high & dry). Premium ancient groves have virtually vanished but rumors circulate of high-performing old Criollo growing as ornamentals in the backyards around Xoconochco.

This bar starts out a classic throwback, with heirloom traces, heightening expectations that, alas, devolve into later introductions of hybrids & imports (the obvious ‘Matina’ strain from Costa Rica) which influence the balance of the length.

Still, a good bar with a fleeting memory built-in of how-it-might’ve-been... plus a lasting reminder that ‘never again’ in this situation is the same as forever.
Appearance   5 / 5
more A&B-the-CofD (see San José del Tambo)
Color: scarlet brown (anthocyanins at work)
Surface: Soconusco
Temper: show ‘n tell
Snap: sharp & clean
Aroma   8.3 / 10
monster cinnamon cherry blossom overlays balsam wood & simple chocolate -> achiote underneath grassy savanna -> wax & near-beer on the surround
Mouthfeel   10.4 / 15
Texture: waxen & knobby
Melt: uneven, turns to thin liquid
Flavor   41.7 / 50
breaks light on pure-fab chocolate -> troubles into sub-soil -> light dirt -> dusts up cocoa which runs entire length -> red apparition (from the aromatic) -> spice streak (cinnamon & cardamom) -> splinters minor vegetal stalk to form basis for green pineapple, mounting to tobacco leaf &, finally, peaks astringent green olive on the out-take
Quality   16.5 / 20
Other than texture, well-processed, clean & clear flavors. Relatively extended ferment & light roast align with an emerging New American style that approaches, though in this particular case barely avoids, alcohol & balsamic.

ING: cocoa mass, sugar, cacáo butter; CBS ~4:4:3

  

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