Info Details
Country Belgium   
Type Dark   (72%)
Strain Hybrid   
Source Madagascar   (Sambirano Valley; Domaine d'Ambanja)
Flavor Earthen   
Style Industrial      
D.O.A. – hopefully an anomaly / just a bad batch. Tastes of failed technology-transfer & shabby 3rd world processing.
Appearance   4.6 / 5
Color: atypical for Madagascar - brooding maroon (“seeing” the roast)
Surface: inscrutable
Temper: absorbs its shine
Snap: good pitch & Marcolini’s trademark soft-to-the-touch / clean edge (interior shimmering red)
Aroma   7.4 / 10
air, fire & wood... all the elements except water; shaped by Marcolini’s roasting style, effectively quashing the usual Madagascar citrus notes for a heavier spice tone, miraculously sustaining lightness thru an oxygen column; rumors of fruit only on the rubdown
Mouthfeel   11.2 / 15
Texture: desiccated & in need of the element missing in the aroma – H2O
Melt: almost self-corrects the texture, goes even at the end
Flavor   29.1 / 50
jacks-in cocoa -> quick passing fruit (sweet red date jujube) -> jackfruit dominates + musty vanilla perfume, while underneath chocolate mainlines over cedar wood -> grousing talc, worsened by cereal grain (soy too) -> at the tail of evolution... dried cranberry & green pineapple
Quality   9.4 / 20
Dark in every aspect: color, aroma, tone, flavor. A chink in Marcolini’s otherwise sterling armor. None of the beauty of ylang-ylang & sparkling acidity that so often comes off this island makes it into this bar. Delivers a shot of chocolate, more in the form of cocoa powder, fumigated in talc & dust, pointing to a combination of bad crop, poor bean selection, & improper storage; completely missing the handle, starting with a amateur inspection ‘cut’ of the beans - these should’ve been rejected. But, also, a misapplication of Marcolin’s style to an origin requiring a gentler approach. The sum feels as if working from a set formula instead of customized-processing of each different bean origin: the difference between artistry & factory.


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