Box Chocolate Review

Blanxart

Info Details
Country Spain   (Barcelona)
Style Classic      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Intensity
Complexity
Impact
Bring it.... blood sugar way too stable.

If, as David Richerby declares, the tooth fairy teaches kids they can sell body parts for money, then Blanxart learned the lesson extremely well. A prostitute to nuts & sweet enough to cause any leftover enamel to decay.
Presentation   4.7 / 5
classic old-time revival; light weight box opens unto shapes, sizes & swirls in 2 shades of brown (light & dark) that speak ‘chocolate’; some w/ skids marks on the bottom from the enrobing conveyor
Aromas   4.4 / 5
heavy on the praline & coffee
Textures/Melt   7.1 / 10
Shells: coatings more than shells
Centers: mealy
Flavor   44.3 / 50
based on a narrowly limited range from an already small sample size
Quality   25.8 / 30
How many ways can Blanxart say ‘praliné’? Apparently more than the number of busy bees it takes to pollinate an nut tree.
Selections
Couverture: in-house
Pralinè trufa con almendra – only a few crushed bittersweet almonds punctuate this aero-cream dynamic truffle which nonetheless impart near Amaretto lightness; sensational
Trufa al coñac– super-fluff butter-cream cup infused w/ cognac leaving vapor trails of apricot; outstanding
Cinco Capas- 5 coats, each its own sheet, of a gianduja neopolitan w/ almond praline though in actuality “just” 3 layers (a couple non-Chocolate hazelnut creams; triple-tiered Milk Choc; all topped by a dollop of Dark)... the total assembly paradoxically light & compressed, sweet & filbert sharp; a showhorse
Tronco Pralinè– persistent all-action almond-coffee trunk; too sweet, snappy (texture & taste) & salivating that it hurts right in the mouth cup; excellent
Pirámide almendras– 3 whole roasted almonds dipped to stand up in a Milk Choc pyramid physically soldered together by a Dark Choc seam &, flavor-wise, by salt; plain & direct

Reviewed Autumn 2010

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