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Info Details
Country France   
Type Semi-Dark   (bordering Dark; 70%)
Strain Amelonado   (Amazon; + evident Criollo)
Source São Tomé   
Flavor Naked   
Style Classic      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Just as Britney is neo-Madonna who was pseudo-Dietrich, or The Virgins are The Stones-lite during their ‘Some Girls’ phase after they made a career aping numerous Blues greats, most São Tomé bars are derivatives from a similar patenting process. This is different: sõõthing coco-cream as the 'velvet fog' of Mel Tomé (apologies Melvin for the misspelling).
Appearance   4.8 / 5
Color: close to ebony w/ a rare appearance for a São Tomé of recessed red pigment
Surface: beautiful brush plate
Temper: marble sheen typical for the origin
Snap: really pops despite airholes in the inside
Aroma   7.4 / 10
hammy (possible over fermented & roasted): a cedar box stuffed w/ smoked sausage + green begonia & raspberry leaves -> cream biscuit underneath adds body
Mouthfeel   13.8 / 15
Texture: unctuously round
Melt: sensuous
Flavor   45.1 / 50
red flush -> chocolate blush -> black raspberry tang... all coy & unstinting but a bit desultory -> bitter struts for support break the monotony -> cinnamon & its own vanilla -> flesh of young fresh coconut -> cream tones -> flat grass at the finish; oddly, the hammy packet in the aroma shows only in the aft-taste
Quality   17.6 / 20
Defies both the island from which it came & Richart’s stylistic tendencies. Well-roasted though shy of the house-style, preserving traces of this origin’s characteristic red tarts while respecting those atypical cream components (formed in part by a supreme conche that’s also felt in the texture) to generate Dark-Milk swag, apparently with the help of a generous cacáo butter cut too.

So rumors of a sequestered Criollo pocket on São Tomé may be confirmed. That same butter/cream axis, however restrains amplitude, reducing scale & impact found in Cluizel’s benchmark on the origin (Vila Gracinda), leading to restless indeterminacy... a seeker without a lodestar. Along the way though is some refined & supple flavor.

ING: cacáo, sugar, lecithin

  

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