Info Details
Country Madagascar   
Type Dark   (67%)
Strain Hybrid   (modest Criollo)
Source Madagascar   (Sambirano Valley)
Flavor Crossover   (Twang x Spices/Herbs)
Style Rustic      
Wrapp this Ludicras: Madécrass goes class in some kinda suga’shack / with the object lesson being this: it takes the sting of a bee / to taste the honey.
Appearance   3.7 / 5
looks dry
Color: burnt orange
Surface: flakes & dust
Temper: semi-gloss
Snap: big poppy for 67%, practically brittle & hollow sounding, in keeping w/ overall dryness, furthered by early bloom on the break wall
Aroma   7.6 / 10
same dessicated scent that runs in the Madécasse family: cocoa husks & coconut shells -> dried leather -> aerates to banana & litchi lost/lifted in the butter
Mouthfeel   11.8 / 15
Texture: good w/ slight powder grain
Melt: even-paced; astringent
Flavor   40.6 / 50
browned sugar -> molasses -> sassafras soda fizz -> barberry sours to schisandra w/ splintered cedar & silver fir wood supports -> chocolate in the recesses -> surprise apparition of honey-sweetened cranberry, loosens to red then white currant -> champagne grape -> stinging acids further whiten the course (litchi & marang) for traditional Madagascar gin; after length... a wooden milk chocolate moment + pineapple
Quality   16.7 / 20
Opening stretch of brown sugar ‘n spice seems the anti-Madagascar except it has been seen, particularly in Domori’s Madagared. The progression pivots on berries as acids come forward, more typical for the origin. Still, a dumbfounding & lengthy complex.

Madécasse’s generally crude workmanship probably cannot answer the question ‘how did they do that’?

The guess: an unrefined sugar, possibly muscovado leeching molasses, gets employed here. Comprising one-third of this bar’s content, with a Textural clue that mixing & conching fall short of fully integrating the batch, sugar leads the procession until cacáo overtakes it to unleash those acids.

Otherwise, nice definition up top, countered in wood (converted by sugar from all the bitters that imperils Madécasse’s higher percentage releases), but still too obscure a chocolate bottom to make this an all-world contender.

ING: cocoa mass, sugar, cacáo butter; CBS (Cocoa-Butter-Sugar ratio)
Reviewed Autumn 2008


Pin It on Pinterest