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Esmeraldas 70

by Salgado
Info Details
Country Argentina   
Type Dark   (70%)
Strain Esmeraldas   
Source Ecuador   
Flavor Crossover   (Earthen x Naked)
Style Industrial      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact

Revenge is petty - once again Salgado takes it out on the lovely Esmeraldas - but redemption is sweet... this bean practically redeems itself single-handedly in a survivor’s tale in which the rating, while fair & accurate, fails to render complete justice.
Appearance   4.7 / 5
Color: orange blush typical for Esmeraldas, in light mink
Surface: flakes, chips & scuff marks
Temper: well-buffed
Snap: pops sharp & tight; clean straight edge wall
Aroma   7.1 / 10
DOA: burnt butter in dull smoked tobaccocoa -> miraculousy a lone papaya ray shines thru
Mouthfeel   9.9 / 15
Texture: hard tack & powder
Melt: elapsed as an hour glass
Flavor   38.6 / 50
slow developer... -> simple cocoa + coconut -> papaya shaft, momentarily sweet & plump, reaches a bitter in the hole -> resolves soft chocolate -> metallic cocoa powder -> meters out charred cocoa flecks to a shocking cream end; ash aftermath
Quality   12.4 / 20
Supposedly all’s well that ends well but before then... whoa. Crudely refined & fairly unprofessional. As a result, definition & form suffer.

Once more Salgado burns it. Sugaring, as well as this varietal’s genetics, overcome enough flaws in the handling however to catch a bite of Esmeraldas’ eloquence. Trouble is, articulation gets thwarted by over-roasting (char & ash) & poor conching (substandard Texture), although the limited nature of the latter at least spares some residual acidity to generate that fruited moment & retain lactic acid for a smooth Criollo cream ending... that is until... smothering ash returns.

Another salvage point in a chocolate grasping for straws is this bar’s fat formulation - CBS (Cocoa-Butter-Sugar ratio) ~3:4:3 – as butter helps to soothe the gashes.

ING: cocoa mass, sugar, cacáo butter, soya lecithin

Reviewed June 2009

  

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