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Koko-Bata

by Adi
Info Details
Country Fiji   
Type White Chocolate   
Strain Hybrid   (Cundeamor)
Source Fiji   (Vanua Levu; Savusavu)
Flavor Naked   (to Earthen)
Style Old School      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Koko Bata boom bata bang... Adi means 'cream' in Fijian & this, the closest the label gets to its namesake, given the intractable nature of its other bars.

‘It is beautiful taste’ to use another Fijian phrase. Beautiful, of course, being a culturally relative term.

For those unaccustomed to real 100% pure cacáo butter, it may evoke the same reaction as Girolamo Benzoni, one of the earlier Europeans to taste chocolate in the 16th century: "I can't imagine that the Devil could vomit something more pestilent".

Possible to imagine the entire nature of the Fiji is in there in this bar. Everything from soil to flower, creek to the sun, & pure Fiji water (& not the plastic-bottled stuff picked up from 7-11) blended into the breeze.

One melt of this & you’re all over the island.

Tom Ohito Zukoshi (Tomo for short) of Adi Chocolate believes that butter represents the pure blood of cacáo history from ancient time.

Hmmm, in deference let’s defer to him while ruminating over that for awhile... hearing him further in the distance with ‘we love this butter’.

No wonder.

A whale tooth of a great-white bestowed as a token of respect (or sevusevu), like the tabua (polished tooth of the sperm whale) worn as a necklace in Fiji.

Cocoa’s got a brand new Butterman. ‘Tui Bata’ - The King of Fats.
Appearance   3.9 / 5
Color: oatmeal
Surface: tight mold on the face of it; lumpen back
Temper: plastic paste
Snap: power tool; translucent break w/ occasional pinhole
Aroma   7.9 / 10
very direct... ain’t no avg White but a great white whale of slowly roasted wood & dense husk from itself (namely, Theobroma cacáo) -> gutsy banana-almond head banger -> light soursop -> bated brushstrokes of cinnamon mix for banana-caramel bound in leather -> coconut & champaca (aka white sandalwood); rare / special
Mouthfeel   14 / 15
Texture: massive Wax Factor™; surfboard-quality greases the longest pike
Melt: everlast... smooth chewing gum -> never truly disintegrates
Flavor   38.1 / 50
picks up on all the Aromatics (especially those cardboard husks) -> chicle -> butter ‘n wax -> soft cocoa bang -> scrapes a little coral & sea current -> ocean bitumen -> machine oil & solvent too -> hits pay dirt on sandalwood roots in granite -> slides off the lips simple cocoa butter
Quality   15.3 / 20
Yeah, it’s all in there alright (including the machinery!).

Word to bar-smiths: lubricate your axles with melted cacáo butter - al least it'll taste of chocolate. The oleic acid, the linoleic acid, the stearic & the palmitic (the last 2 saturated but stearic converts to oleic in the body)... all the elements that constitute cacáo butter. Supposed to be a cholesterol-neutral load &, if so, probably because it's rather indigestible so it passes right thru the GI tract & out the rear vent.

Good specular of Adi’s Cundeamor bean. Captures it pretty whole thanks to intentionally underfermented processing & a golden roast. Slaty, or underfermented beans, leaves a lot a phenols & bitterness intact. Adi's butter-press extracts the fair essence – at more than mere homeopathic levels, as is the case of every other White Chocolate confected in milk & sugar, where this retains 100% cacáo butter... the seed pressed into the service of flavor to bottle the South Pacific & mold into a bar.

Growers in the tropics normally use butter without crystallizing; just fresh-squeezed oil from freshly-ground seeds. In molding the butter, it’s first tempered, then goes thru the cooling process & rests for 2 days. Aging takes another 2 weeks. Food-grade for sure but cosmetic companies love this stuff too for its high profit margins in addition to being one of nature’s finest emollients.

Try it on the tongue for a taste or the tush for a tan

ING: cacáo butter

Reviewed Summer 2010

  

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