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Milk Choc w/ Nibs

by Danta
Info Details
Country Guatemala   
Type Milk Chocolate   (w/ Nibs)
Strain Criollo   (Crossed)
Source Guatemala   (Suchitepéquez, Las Acacias Estate)
Flavor Crossover   
Style Rustic      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
How many times must chocophiliacs remind that Theobroma translates into ‘food of the gods’? Countless, really. It necessarily follows, therefore, that Milk Chocolate with Nibs is their rough equivalent of buttered popcorn. In other words, ‘god-snack’... siaan k'aan (Mayan for ‘born in heaven’ for those looking to flirt with the C-spot’s™ Banned Words List).

Posh, to be sure, insofar as cacáo & maize represent the twin pillars to ancient Mesoamerican cosmology, so chocolate-covered popcorn would constitute the original nibble; & this, with cow’s milk, the corrupt Ladino variant.

All goes to show that even the gods probably buy into GMO & live high off the hog.
Appearance   3.9 / 5
Color: greasy brown
Surface: variegated front; frozen wavy-gravy out back
Temper: mottled
Snap: more crunch than snap (as expected w/ Nibs); crag edge
Aroma   8.3 / 10
caramel laminated in some elm bark -> rubber (both tree & sap) -> peanut butter -> cheese skunk -> billows toasted cocoa crisps ‘n coffee; rich
Mouthfeel   13.4 / 15
Texture: soft padding around Nibs crunch
Melt: exhilarating movement & speed
Flavor   45 / 50
hyper-sweet (fructose, sap sweeteners, corn glucose, cocoa) -> Nibs come to the toothache rescue... as the drill-bits to bore a root canal -> temporary insensitivity to sugar water -> moraberry bursts in to toffee (a special moment in all of Chocodom) -> spins out Ovaltine™ bulging w/ bovine growth-hormone -> leaves behind wondrous papaya-cocoa
Quality   17.2 / 20
Dangerously sweet (100% Milk Chocolate; 99% sugar) but Nibs bring it back from the brink. The adult fix for every kid brought up on Bosco™ & Ovaltine™, including all those foreign objects that’d stick between the teeth.

Outstanding core-chocolate principle; gone are the overweening malt & wood accents of this label’s Acacias Milk. But similar to that bar, the dairy influence here feels more ancillary than direct. Among the most compatible / best-compounded of Danta’s line. Reconfigured to a lower-sweet insanity, it could rank with the very tops in category.

ING: sugar, cocoa mass + nibs, vitamin-enriched milk pwdr, cacáo butter, soy lecithin, vanilla bean

Reviewed Autumn 2010

  

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