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Info Details
Country Austria   
Type Milk Chocolate   (40%)
Strain Hybrid   
Source Dominican Republic   (Yamasá)
Flavor Sugar   
Style Mainstream      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Ever since around 2008, on account of a superb harvest due to fabulous weather season, The Dominican Republic acquired a following as the ‘go-to’ destination for cacáo tourists. Yet even here chocolate-lovemaker Josef Zotter still plumbs the underground – discovering the sugar cane village of Yamasá.

Welcome to the Sugarcult of Milk Chocolates.
Appearance   4.2 / 5
Color: light brown, almost blonde
Surface: smudged but among Zotter’s best
Temper: fat wax shimmer
Snap: a good & sound hi-bass; another fine edge from this label
Aroma   8.4 / 10
roasted cocoa / salted peanut brittle undercut by low-tang buttermilk shy of sour yet suggestive of it as well as a wisp of tobac -> goes sweet pink grapefruit or even chironja -> flickering mango
Mouthfeel   12 / 15
Texture: thick butter
Melt: choppy
Flavor   45.1 / 50
milk / cocoa butter confluence... flow thru nut-brittle toffee spiked in salt -> malted egg creams -> Easter egg candy -> vanilla plantain -> cereal flake in buttermilk... slow dissipation & dissolution into a White Chocolate fadeout
Quality   18.2 / 20
Classic MC with some twists.

Zotter makes a startling admission: for this 40%, he preferred a mild cocoa cultivated in Yamasá, pretty much in the dead-center of DR, along Río Ozama. So mild it borders on ‘moonmilk chocolate’ – all those near-white analogues (egg creams, plantains, ivory white chocolate...). And yet nothing goes missing, thanks to even-handed salt & vanilla distribution that both maximizes & balances out the profile.

Further contributing to the outcome is a very gentle roasting on these sensitive beans, rolled with a combination of various cane sugars (possibly right from Yamasá itself – a sugar cane center of sorts), then matched to a ridiculously short 6-hour conche creating a textural paradox: smooth & lumpy -- the lone imperfection in a bar that otherwise works.

ING: raw cane sugar, cocoa butter, full cream milk pwdr (21%), cocoa mass, more sugar (“whole cane”), vanilla, salt

Reviewed Summer 2010

  

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