by Marañón Canyon
Info Details
Country Peru   
Type Beans   
Strain Nacional   
Source Peru   (Marañón Canyon)
Flavor Earthen   
Style Classic      
Less improbable than it sounds though no less unprecedented: the foie gras of cacáo, with its own inherent sweetener(!), a timeless taste served in homage to NY’s Studio 54, re-opened here in an imaginarium replete with its disco queens & coke fiends.

Ain’t quite free-roaming (nothing in the city ever truly is, even when Wile E. Coyote tries to enroll at Columbia University) yet no force-feeding / no gavage either as they say in the foie gras trade... just natural expansion of the abdomen.

Forget nasty ‘soykey’, try humane chocoliver instead.

Ad libitum ('eat freely')
Appearance   4.8 / 5
Color: beautiful rosewood-bark colored husk covers 54 shades of brown
Surface: semi-large flats
Temper: mild mannered
Snap: easiest of Marañón’s beans to peel... & still laborious
Aroma   8.1 / 10
coolly distilled white vinegar then heavy soursop / camu-camu / granadilla of sharp acidity -> underneath a latent cocoa backed in chicle & laurel
Mouthfeel   14 / 15
Texture: light break on crushing the Bean into Nib
Melt: soft cinch; easy as mousse on the tooth; outstanding well-fattened mash
Flavor   48.3 / 50
sparkling fruit-flys that Hi-5 some well integrated chocolate, then rollicking nuts & mushroom paté immediately pull it onto the ground... into the fig roots & corn-fed foie gras of cocoa -> goosed by a Sauterne (the liver lightly awash then enlarged) -> migrates onto a laurel barking back up with very tempered bitterness & hickory nut -> coca leaf -> wipes away small plantain & drifts off on a tiny floral petal
Quality   19.5 / 20
‘54’ refers to the approximate ratio of purple seeds to white seeds in the pods coming from a particular stand of trees. Basically, a natural blend of Marañón’s Dark Nac’l with its White Nac’l.

However picked & selected, these are excellent. Very easy tongue; even the bitterness is welcome, nicely complimenting the unexpected foie, all buffered in the nuts, grapes, & floral finale. In the right hands, this should make for a sensational high-percentage bar thanks to its generously soft fat content.

ING: cocoa bean

Reviewed Autumn 2010


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