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Stud-54

by Marañón Canyon
Info Details
Country Peru   
Type Beans   
Strain Nacional   
Source Peru   (Marañón Canyon)
Flavor Earthen   
Style Classic      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Less improbable than it sounds though no less unprecedented: the foie gras of cacáo, with its own inherent sweetener(!), a timeless taste served in homage to NY’s Studio 54, re-opened here in an imaginarium replete with its disco queens & coke fiends.

Ain’t quite free-roaming (nothing in the city ever truly is, even when Wile E. Coyote tries to enroll at Columbia University) yet no force-feeding / no gavage either as they say in the foie gras trade... just natural expansion of the abdomen.

Forget nasty ‘soykey’, try humane chocoliver instead.

Ad libitum ('eat freely')
Appearance   4.8 / 5
Color: beautiful rosewood-bark colored husk covers 54 shades of brown
Surface: semi-large flats
Temper: mild mannered
Snap: easiest of Marañón’s beans to peel... & still laborious
Aroma   8.1 / 10
coolly distilled white vinegar then heavy soursop / camu-camu / granadilla of sharp acidity -> underneath a latent cocoa backed in chicle & laurel
Mouthfeel   14 / 15
Texture: light break on crushing the Bean into Nib
Melt: soft cinch; easy as mousse on the tooth; outstanding well-fattened mash
Flavor   48.3 / 50
sparkling fruit-flys that Hi-5 some well integrated chocolate, then rollicking nuts & mushroom paté immediately pull it onto the ground... into the fig roots & corn-fed foie gras of cocoa -> goosed by a Sauterne (the liver lightly awash then enlarged) -> migrates onto a laurel barking back up with very tempered bitterness & hickory nut -> coca leaf -> wipes away small plantain & drifts off on a tiny floral petal
Quality   19.5 / 20
‘54’ refers to the approximate ratio of purple seeds to white seeds in the pods coming from a particular stand of trees. Basically, a natural blend of Marañón’s Dark Nac’l with its White Nac’l.

However picked & selected, these are excellent. Very easy tongue; even the bitterness is welcome, nicely complimenting the unexpected foie, all buffered in the nuts, grapes, & floral finale. In the right hands, this should make for a sensational high-percentage bar thanks to its generously soft fat content.

ING: cocoa bean

Reviewed Autumn 2010

  

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