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Info Details
Country Austria   
Type Milk Chocolate   (45%; Goat's Milk)
Strain
Source Nicaragua   
Flavor Earthen   
Style New School      (+ Rustic underfoot)
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
ATTN: All J-Z fans... no, not the former Whitman’s-type Sampler turned cut ‘n paste lover-boy changing Pampers™. MC of famed Pro-Tools hiring hit-men for Death of the Autotune (big name-check to session musicianz everywarez) wedging the 'a' between the 'j' & double 'z'. No, not that rap at all (cuz the last thing any of 'em want to hear of: a new playa in the game, afraid of just who'll dominate, & so sent back to inhabit that suborned nation called Consternation). No, not that but to the latest of the greatest Austrian composers, the one & only Joe Zawinul.

And, of course, Joe Zotter.

Both of these Austrians share the same first name, the same initials, & the same level of artistic soulcraft. show more »
Appearance   4.3 / 5
Color: soft saddle brown
Surface: popped out of the mould well
Temper: perspiration to the shine
Snap: glove compartment; hairy edge
Aroma   8.6 / 10
relatively clean for a goat, especially at this percentage; a little back-kick in the nose, otherwise good Milk Chocolate frame w/ leather covering a sticky-thick caramel stuck in an ash hole -> mineralizes salt
Mouthfeel   13 / 15
Texture: very 3-D; substantial heft & weight
Melt: a marijuana minute, & nimble too
Flavor   44.1 / 50
salty-goat quickstepping over cocoa dust, caramel, toffee, very dried dates -> kicks over a milk bucket -> lays down a chevre drop... all-goat / pure goat from there on... until skidding out on peanut skins & a fleck of ash
Quality   18.7 / 20
In the anals of Goat Milk Chocolate or rather annals (excluding Hershey’s Milk Choc made from dairy cows that it purposely spoils for that sour goat-like taste), Escazú produces among the few respectable bars, one that weighs in at 62% cacáo-content however, which somewhat offsets the goat presence.

Zotter knows from personal experience the difficulty of milking a goat & matching it to cacáo. He owns a few of those lively creatures, letting them literally run in front of his house, where he milks outdoors.

This very much a Milk Choc even though at 45% it borders the Dark-Milk category.

With greater goat-to-cacáo ratio, the craft must also be higher & well tailored in its alignment.

Yes, the goat in this bar is free-range, but stays considerate of other components, dosed carefully to render a full but un-intrusive effect. It never tramples taste-buds with its cleft hooves, always respectful of the final end-flavor on this side chocolate (an inordinately strong CQ or Chocolate Quotient of baseline cocoa flavor), quite the opposite of some barren or, worse, bestial territory -- the province of Askinosie’s 52% Soconusco Goat.

Also worth mentioning: salt mediates & modulates a fair bit of the goat’s rebellious spirit here.

Beyond the formulation, however, a deep-roasted cocoa, plus thorough conching with its own temperature, adds to the balance.

Once again, Zotter overachieves.

ING: raw cane sugar, cocoa mass, goat milk pwdr (20%), cacáo butter, whole cane sugar, salt, vanilla

Reviewed Autumn 2010

  

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