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Info Details
Country UK   
Type Milk Chocolate   (40%; Batch #100167)
Strain Amazon   
Source Peru   
Flavor Fruits & Flowers   
Style New School      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Fr. John Ball – the Lady Godiva of men (or she, the Balls of women since he came first) -- was hung for leading a Peasant’s Revolt in 1381. A radical Christian preaching social justice well before Bono, he too could rhyme like when he sung ‘When Adam delved & Eve spanned, who was the gentleman?’

This bar will have many wondering the same about the relationship between cacáo seeds & cow’s milk.

In the new era chocolate where some souls venture blindly into the Dark, humble milk chocolate has been left behind, cast aside in the ditch as blasphemous.

This shall revive it in a fresh guise.

A rebel of an MC.
Appearance   4.7 / 5
Color: Caucasian tan
Surface: perfection
Temper: oily
Snap: quiet; crumbling edge
Aroma   7.9 / 10
granny’s musty wooden cupboard filled with full-cream powdered milk & vanilla (though of the latter none added), throw in some scattered graham cracker crumbs -> all the elements together twist up into dried-caramel
Mouthfeel   11.9 / 15
Texture: waxen & granular
Melt: slow + a little stuck
Flavor   45.2 / 50
fruit bowl with milk (strawberry-mango) -> spices ‘n chocolate-caramel (cinnamon & coriander) -> praliné wafer -> plods on to the finish line in a heavy-cream / sweet-caramel with a fruit blush (papaya & pear)
Quality   17.4 / 20
Most Milk Chocolate lies on a very Earthen caramel-toffee-nuts continuum. This differs in its pronounced fruit loop.

Much of the interest is spring-loaded upfront which allows it to enjoy a redux at the very end. In between the bar stalls some under the weight of a waxen texture... slow to find its way.... which it does however, to finish the course in grand fashion.

Unsurprisingly, Peru’s fruit-basket – seen more clearly in Red Star’s 70% Peru -- does more than just accent this Milk Chocolate. It sweetens & colors the bar with charisma well beyond the majority in this, or even the Dark-Milk, category.

If Madagascar highlights a Milk Chocolate with bright citrus effects, these Peruvian cocoa beans bring rarefied sun-ripe nectars. And enough of them to think they were soaked in fruit juice rather than fermented pulp.

Britons rarely put history behind them... the past always seems to hang around. Cadbury’s™, a venerable British candy institution, may have sold out to Kraft’s™ but Brit Duffy Sheardown of Red Star is buying into his own craft.

ING: cocoa mass, sugar, cacáo butter, milk powder (18%), lecithin

Reviewed July 2011

  

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