Bali Sukrama Milk

by Åkesson's
Info Details
Country Sweden   (via France)
Type Flavored   (Palm Sugar; Fleur de Sel; 45%; Lot N 132A 321101)
Strain Hybrid   
Source Indonesia   (Bali; Melaya; Sukrama Estates)
Flavor Earthen   (add Twang)
Style New School      
Once Eve bit into the apple of carnal knowledge, the sons of Adam have been afflicted, the old Jewish saying goes, with whenever the penis stands up, the brain shuts down.

The contagion has spread to both sexes (any doubters should just try talking to a diva with a strap-on -- what a bitch). Will-power & self-control elude just about everyone, hence massive credit card debt, obesity, promiscuity & more.

On the other hand, too much delayed gratification leads to its own silly set of disorders, warn cognitive scientists Steven Pinker & Roy Baumeister. From repressed drives to neuroses, in line with the joke about the inmate facing capital punishment who declines the ceremonial last meal because he’s trying to lose weight (less fat equals faster death-by-injection?).

In those conflicting moments between temptation & guilt, prevent the next lapse with this bar, tantamount to a meal replacement: vitamin-fortified milk already rich in calcium & protein, cocoa for its vaunted anti-oxidant power, plus mother nature's trace minerals pooled into sea salt -- that's if high blood pressure has yet to cause a stroke before this a seizure... of rapture.

A microcosm really of 'life's hell & then we die', but with enough stirring by endtimes to provoke a mortal response as the eyes roll into pinballs about their sockets, cursing the air with 'why couldn't it always be this way?'.

Appearance   4.6 / 5
Color: tickled pink
Surface: clean with Åkesson's regal 'Å' embossed in the middle; ripples on the back
Temper: flashy
Snap: subsonic woofer
Aroma   9.4 / 10
more than a bar, a chocolate bakery the likes of which haven't been sniffed since Geert Vercruysse: croissants & pie crusts, flan custard, big butter & candied mulberries
Mouthfeel   11.3 / 15
Texture: wickedly viscous
Melt: interminably sluggish
Flavor   42 / 50
smoky dark caramel -> salt transforms it toward butterscotch, then burnt toffee... holds this thru-line over an under-riding fruit lay (tamarind) -> buttermilk tang -> terrific parting shot on a citric-nut brittle
Quality   14.2 / 20
Pronounced mutability of its 75% sour puss of a sib.

The use of coconut palm sugar sees to it. With internalized maple / caramel flavor of its own, palm sugar reinforces Milk Chocolate's naturally caramelized tones to create a double-density of dark caramel cover. Results in an overly rich, heavy bar & a first: a fruit bottom! Usually fruits appear higher on the palate. This inverts that... until the very end when order is restored.

Before then, however, three-quarters of the progression are overbearing / unbalanced. The thickness of that cover occludes so many flavor flags struggling for oxygen & largely negates the Fleur de Sel -- no small feat.

Texture too fights for its melt. Maybe because of it Åkesson feels compelled to utilize lecithin (which, given its amphiphillic properties, might actually aggravate the situation).

These defects are less about craft than choice of ingredients.

That aside, flavor improves along the length... for that rather elucidated & rapturous finish.

A bar ideally suited for jaded taste buds on the prowl to rouse their sensors.

ING: cocoa mass, coconut palm sugar, cane sugar, milk powder, cocoa butter, lecithin, fleur de sel

Reviewed September 13, 2011


Pin It on Pinterest