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Bali Sukrama

by Åkesson's
Info Details
Country Sweden   (via France)
Type Dark   (75%; Lot N 418D 135011)
Strain Hybrid   
Source Indonesia   (Bali; Melaya; Sukrama Estates)
Flavor Crossover   
Style Classic      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Pure BS

Not be confused with that other BS... the chocolate Beyond Sublime from Jembrana but the initials of this Bali Sukrama bar to elicit terima kasih, meaning 'thanks / gratitude', Bali Style.

Cacáo from this island wears no sexy genes compared to hotspots Beniano, Venzy, or Marañón. Just a promiscuous slut here.

And one tasteful reminder that cross-pollination is the way of cacáo; leading many in the chocolate wards to think If nature abhors an inbred, she adores a hybrid.
Appearance   3.7 / 5
Color: frosted magenta
Surface: smudge block (scuffs, plastic wrapper transfer, slight bloom, swirls...)
Temper: nuclear cloud
Snap: lowers the gong
Aroma   9.1 / 10
an exotically intoxicating all-4-1 & 1-4-all jelly jam (the apricot-like loquat / bignay berry / monk fruit [luo han guo]) spiced by clove / perilla (think cinnamon meets anise meets vanilla) & sweetened in coconut palm sugar -> charcoal + betel in the base; could be a sticky one
Mouthfeel   12.3 / 15
Texture: dry beginning runs smooth & expansive (lecithin)
Melt: patient
Flavor   45.8 / 50
raisin stuck in chocolate -> unexpected custard pudding -> roasted cashew -> palm sugar the sweetener to papaya -> shifts up in acidity to mango, then loquat -> sours some on Gmelina arborea tree fruit, bamboo & tamarind -> lemon grass + a nut re-emergence, this time around chestnut & brazil nut -> Oreo™ sandwich + akebia (the 5-leaf "chocolate vine")
Quality   17.6 / 20
What starts out rather Caribbean in the mold of Valrhona (gooey raisin glop) re-orients to Oceania & trues itself by the end.

The Sukrama Bros cultivate cacáo on the western edge of the island. There Bertil Åkesson enlists the aid of Ben Ripple (Big Tree Estate) & Frederick Schilling (ex-Dagoba / current Amma) for grain selection & centralized fermentation. Together they perform some assiduous due diligence.

Despite the warning on the label of "masculine bitterness", very little comes on strong. Sure, there's a scrape of wood but most of it sublimates into nuts.

Quite complete: decent range, depth (especially at the front), symmetry, cohesion &, although it tires somewhat, it never quits or runs flat as Jembrana, so count stamina as another of its fine attributes.

Nothing mind-blowing or taste buds ripping. Just solid quality thru & thru.

ING: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter, lecithin

Reviewed September 12, 2011

  

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