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Wanilla i Mleko

by Chris & Tom / Manufactura Czekolady
Info Details
Country Poland   
Type Dark-Milk   (60%)
Strain CCN-51   
Source Ecuador   
Flavor Earthen   
Style New School      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
As bar in sync with the New Poland.

Dark as the avant Polish theater in the Soviet era without its grim, captive fatalism to capture the slyness of the Polish School of Poster Art when arts generally served as a cultural outlet for dissent & resistance against the regime.

For Milk allows this to see the resultant light from unfettered creativity / imagination by Chris & Tom that subverts the gloomy depression now known as Ecuadorian cacáo.

Pure taste-theater, so focused as to be claustroflavic in how it practically avoids the other senses.


Wyzwolenie (Liberation) by Stanislaw Wyspianski
Appearance   4.4 / 5
Color: an incredibly dark 60%
Surface: well-finished
Temper: glazed
Snap: right on the cusp of crisp / crumbling
Aroma   9.1 / 10
Milk Flowers: vanilla orchids concentrate in dense cream fill while cocoa + sugar catalyze sensational honey blossoms underscored in stolid chocolate
Mouthfeel   11.9 / 15
Texture: powderful & dry paste
Melt: eternal
Flavor   46.2 / 50
candied chocolate to candy corn (honey & marshmallow) -> Milk Dud™ caramel -> charcoaled vanilla -> blackens to a developing stream of a unique milk-molasses -> returns to a buttered candy element (honeyed nuts) -> salt toffee the close -> Oreo™ cookie wafer down the shaft
Quality   16.4 / 20
Dark-Milk candy... perhaps the darkest milk candy.

Very deep & probing flavor, continually revolving around a constellated set of notes to make one cross-eyed with amazement so interest never wanders, yet are nonetheless fairly centralized.

Charred right up to the edge of bitterness which may alienate the Milk Choc camp, & its candied FXs those in the Dark Choc quarter (the marshmallow redolent of Colombian cacáo; specifically Santander on its better days). Which all equates to striking a precise median between the two.

The engineering whiz duo at Chris & Tom really work the sugars in this bar -- both the lactose in milk & the sucrose from cane -- in a long roast (~1 hour) plus a relatively short (30 or so hours) but hi-friction conche (yielding dense flavor / coarse Texture).

It shows these guys can overcome tremendous adversity dealt by a bulk cacáo.

ING: cocoa mass, sugar, milk powder, vanilla bean

Reviewed October 20, 2011

  

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