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Deepest Dark

by Fearless
Info Details
Country USA   
Type Dark   (85%)
Strain Amazon   
Source Brazil   (Mata Atlântica; Bahia; Fazenda Monte Alegre)
Flavor Earthen   (to Naked)
Style New School      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Fearless Chocolate Company lives up to its name by scaling this 85%, a daunting percentage made all the more daring by adding NIbs but perhaps without the addition of cocoa butter.

Something else this label acts fearlessly on: owning up, adapting & evolving as its understanding grows.

For example, their wrappers abandon any mention of the word "raw", quite a departure from the past. It evidently intuits both the folly & the integrity-gap to the whole "raw" scene. As such, Fearless CEO Jordan Schuster should receive a purple heart & might consider enlisting in the witness protection program because diehards in the tribal raw cult consider any deviation from orthodox dogma a blasphemy, punishable by.... well, inflicting the heretic with, what else, death by "raw chocolate". That'd exorcize the devil out of anybody -- dead or alive.

Nah, Jordan on the surface appears un-phased & unflappable. Deep down though he lights a burning passion to get to the bottom of all the urban myths surrounding "raw chocolate" pedaled by mufti prophets babbling their silly pseudo-science. Hence his interest & participation in a pending investigation on the properties of "raw chocolate" & their effects on health (for ill or well).

In the meantime, he takes a fiercely different tact. Applying a golden mean of gentle temperature processing to preserve nutrients while enhancing flavor so that chocolate can both be good & taste good.

And just as his bar here turns up the heat low & slow, so to speak, he himself chills like moss.

Of course he probably grinds & munches away deep in thoughts of something even deeper than this Deepest Dark: viz., completely bare-beaning it with no added sugar whatsoever -- an unsweetened 100%.

Perhaps a goal for this label as it continues its climb up to... total darksome.
Appearance   3.8 / 5
Color: brown ink
Surface: whimsical mold... still in motion
Temper: fudge face
Snap: tight but tiny
Aroma   7.8 / 10
unordinary: móle to bar-b-q sauce (tomato base)
settles into more trad Brazil territory -- woods, leaves (including tea + tobac)
leather
brown sugar cap
Mouthfeel   13.4 / 15
Texture: smooth with rolling...
Melt: ... intermittent bumps
Flavor   44.2 / 50
good earth cocoa -> brazil nut skins -> salt mineralizes & complexes the profile to savory móle -> cured charcuterie (as this high percentage reverts to quasi-raw seed character) -> Aromatics (from above) rain down on the pal (for Palate)... a li'l moss green on the edges
Quality   15.5 / 20
True.

Plays it pretty close to the Nib.

Inescapable parallels to Amma's 85% because Fearless sources from them in Brazil. This less processed though by a lighter hand.

Squarely sits at the midpoint that neatly straddles a fine line between raw & refined.

Ditto the rather unique Texture. Plenty of other bars add NIbs to smooth chocolate planks but this one cuts them in so gently, lightly, & fractionally. Just the right proportion here or there, every now & then, just enough to enable detection as a soft exfoliate for the skin.

Salt 'n sugar, more than a mere condiment though less than all-out flavorings, stabilize the progression. The latter -- whole cane Rapadura replete with molasses intact to impart a slight caramel tone -- colors the opening cocoa frame, while the former (salt) adds interest at the mid-palate, then bridges that front to the wilder impressions at the tail.

Fearsome.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, Nibs, unrefined sugar

Reviewed May 17, 2013

  

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