Impact
White Chocolate is... well, pretty white: milk, sugar, cocoa butter + usually a miscegenation with vanilla.
At a relatively high 40% cacáo (most in the category weigh in around the low 30s or less) sans vanilla ala Willie's Blanco, Bonnat's Ivoire could be the Caucasian of this chocolate demographic... from Africa.
Huh?
At a relatively high 40% cacáo (most in the category weigh in around the low 30s or less) sans vanilla ala Willie's Blanco, Bonnat's Ivoire could be the Caucasian of this chocolate demographic... from Africa.
Huh?
Appearance 4.2 / 5
| Color: | very much its namesake ivory |
| Surface: | pure except for a contact from some scuffs of Dark choc that rubbed off in the factory |
| Temper: | polished |
| Snap: | in the big boy leagues |
Aroma 7.5 / 10
straightforward: cocoa butter & milk casein
Mouthfeel 14.3 / 15
| Texture: | oleo-voluminous that slows into... |
| Melt: | ... albumen |
Flavor 45.1 / 50
instant lemon meringue -> White Chocolate mousse -> umami milk undertones -> egg cream -> frosting the icing on the cake
Quality 17.9 / 20
Way back in 1719, D. Quélus' Histoire Naturelle du Cacao et du Sucre ("A Natural History of Chocolate & Sugar") declares that cacáo from the “Coast of Caraqua” is more buttery & less bitter & in France they prefer this type. His account provides historical perspective on what the C-spot® dubs “The French Contagion”: a national luv-affair with high cocoa butter content. Bonnat's Ivoire Chocolat Blanco re-confirms it here.
Stark yet inviting... the very nature of White, with its rather teething-baby harmlessness that lacks any real bite.
While this bar punctuates with White Chocolate essence, via a relatively inordinate percentage of cocoa butter (which in most White Chocolate formulations tops out at 30 to 35%), & keeps sugar inversely in check (which allows for that savory stretch), it occurs mainly as a by-function of the dairy proteins more than the cocoa lipids.
If Bonnat wishes to scale the absolute pinnacle of genuine whiteness, it'd lose the deodorized Cacao Barry couverture re-melted here & just press its own non-alkalized version from one or more of the many glam origins this venerable house of chocolate crafts into Dark bars. Such a shift undoubtedly will spiral the Flavor Profile into multiple trace analogues with a more cocoa-oriented bent.
Still, such as it is, a big bouncy White.
INGREDIENTS: cocoa butter, sugar, milk powder
Reviewed August 5, 2013
Stark yet inviting... the very nature of White, with its rather teething-baby harmlessness that lacks any real bite.
While this bar punctuates with White Chocolate essence, via a relatively inordinate percentage of cocoa butter (which in most White Chocolate formulations tops out at 30 to 35%), & keeps sugar inversely in check (which allows for that savory stretch), it occurs mainly as a by-function of the dairy proteins more than the cocoa lipids.
If Bonnat wishes to scale the absolute pinnacle of genuine whiteness, it'd lose the deodorized Cacao Barry couverture re-melted here & just press its own non-alkalized version from one or more of the many glam origins this venerable house of chocolate crafts into Dark bars. Such a shift undoubtedly will spiral the Flavor Profile into multiple trace analogues with a more cocoa-oriented bent.
Still, such as it is, a big bouncy White.
INGREDIENTS: cocoa butter, sugar, milk powder
Reviewed August 5, 2013