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Cacao Bisiesto

by French Broad
Info Details
Country USA   
Type Semi-Dark   (68%)
Strain Blend   
Source Nicaragua   
Flavor Spices & Herbs   
Style Rustic      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
REDUX FLASHBACK REVIEW: The following review details 2 Cacao Bisiesto bars from French Broad, an early release in 2013, followed by another in 2016. Overall rating & metrics (upper right) reflect a composite average of both.

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The Dog Ate My... The "dog ate it" excuse hasn't cut it in the classroom for awhile but the US Treasury is more receptive to this explanation than schoolteachers, & for that one person can be grateful.

A Montana man claims his one-eyed dog ate five $100 bills. The pet owner was nothing if not committed, following his dog around for days after the incident, collecting its droppings & eventually picking out the digested bill fragments before mailing them to Washington DC (how did they pass thru security?).

An unpleasant experience, his efforts ultimately paid off.

Treasury sent back a $500 check to replace them.

Maybe it’s part of the government’s “quantitative easing” policy, the monetary equivalent of a laxative befitting the tail.

Whatever, thankfully dogs are allergic to chocolate so this will never happen to chocophages.

A bar that carries the whiff of dogs & fleas but whose taste is anything “butt”.
Appearance   4.6 / 5
Color: a blusher in hearthstone
Surface: quite defined
Temper: charm school
Snap: outspoken to belie its image
Aroma   7.1 / 10
2013
an animal shelter
wet dog lapping around a bowl of Alpo® (seriously)
for puppy wuvers, this got your name on it; those who suffer from pet allergies, stay away

2016
fleeting jungle vines & wind swept pines -> coffee
Mouthfeel   12.4 / 15
Texture: granular
Melt: what rolled up into a gum clump in 2013 turns into lo-butter flutter
Flavor   44.8 / 50
2013
brown sugar start -> momentary mulberry -> what French Broad describes as 'black tea' (some char on the edge of a brownie) easily gets overridden by scintillating tamarind (fine), sparked by spices (a ginger back... then sassafras...) & hugs it for awhile -> kola nut -> trace limestone caps it -> breadfruit & black cocoa the after-party

2016
sugared fruit flirts over cocoa burst -> coffee -> black tea -> allspice -> coffees fades back into aft-taste
Quality   17.4 / 20
2013
Matagalpa; La Dalla; Finca Rogelio Pineda
'Semilla Hybrid' -- IMC-67 + Pound Clonal Selections; Batch #130911BK

Dry soda pop fountain.

A relative -- call it the sweet niece -- of Vintage Plantatation's La Tronca. Both hail from the same finca or grove in Nica, treated to a post harvest by CBN (Giff Laube & José Enrique Herrera's Cacao Bisiesto Nicaragua company), & possess animal instincts in their Aromas.

One therefore proves heuristic in approaching the other.

The extra 22% sugar here empowers, indeed emboldens, this bar with greater presence. Where some might expect a frothy saccharine exuberance, French Broad chisels away with sugar to draw out some seasoned lines (re: those spices glimpsed at in La Tronca). Not to be overlooked in the entire taste-matrix is, of course, the spice-princess of them all -- sugar itself -- which simultaneously doubles as a curb on that nearly-singeing roast whose heat transmutes a substantial amount of the core cocoa notes that characterize this cacáo.

As satisfying as the overall flavor is, it sits in a pretty planar geometry without much depth. Higher sugaring often creates a more 2-dimensional flav-scape. The tags orient nicely however, if on a more immediate surface level.

Add in the Texture & it all adds up to some fetching rusticity.

2016
Matagalpa; El Carmen & Rancho Grande
Batch: 150620

French Broad’s gotta-love-it saga continues in this romantic odyssey: from farmstead (Finca Buddha in Costa Rica) to café in Asheville, NC & baby Sam crawling around the family room. All-American can-do, ala PR firm dream script lived by Jael & Daniel Rattigan.

3 years on & this Cacao Bisiesto bar snagged a ribbon recently, emblematic of the upgrade in its overall quality., thanks largely to its fermentation, improvements in cleanliness & timing in the process as well as craft chocolate making.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar

Reviewed October 15, 2013
Revised February 23, 2016

  

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