by Szántó Tibor
Info Details
Country Hungary   
Type Semi-Dark   (70%)
Strain Blend   
Source Dominican Republic   (Santo Domingo; San Cristobal)
Flavor Fruits & Flowers   (x Spices/Herbs)
Style retro-American      
Both the notable thinker Thomas Szasz & barsmith Szántó Tibor share the same homeland (Hungary) & names that start with "Sz".

Among Szasz's many imminently quotable remarks: "People often say that this or that person has not yet found himself. But the self is not something one finds, it is something one creates."

Szántó clearly sets out to invent an identifiable house style of chocolate. His quest dovetails with another line of his compatriot: "In the animal kingdom, the rule is, eat or be eaten; in the human kingdom, define or be defined."

Szántó -- high definition.
Appearance   3.7 / 5
Color: another lighter shade of brown from Szántó Tibor; call it 'opaque purple-pewter'
Surface: unsightly; pocked with divots on the back
Temper: low light / low life
Snap: those divots accounts for voids / air-pockets along the break wall; still, a resounding clack
Aroma   7.1 / 10
wafts out a bit of a fetid jungle-jumble… mulch compost + some cheese funk set in a saving aspect of a wine aspic
fairly at odds with itself, complicated more than complex, until it settles into sticks & stones amidst a cocoa tannery
spices up tobacco-clove
Mouthfeel   11.6 / 15
Texture: substantial grain
Melt: fast & furious
Flavor   41.4 / 50
tobacco-clove -> marshmallow (mostly marsh) -> slippery elm -> apricot the precursor to grape bubbleyum before jute & burlap cover it up -> sisal -> cacáo verde (green cocoa powder) -> yeasty malt ending
Quality   15.01 / 20
Another "green bean" from Szántó Tibor thanks to his extremely light-handed touch in the processing. Hence the offsets & rather off-putting musty ropes that muddle up the middle.

Marshmallow 'n bubble gum almost fool of Belize's cotton candy 'n chicle; the tobacco 'n apricot however squarely places this in The Dominican Republic.

Liner notes list "passion fruit" among the available accents (click image upper right to enlarge) but the bar shows too sweet & subacid mid-range for that.

Far from a great D.R., nonetheless the best bar yet to rep Szántó Tibor's preferred house-style.

Reviewed January 10, 2014


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