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Lakuna

by Cacaosuyo
Info Details
Country Peru   
Type Dark   (70%)
Strain Amazon   (broadly classified)
Source Peru   
Flavor Fruits & Flowers   
Style Mainstream      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Cacaosuyo invests substantially in packaging (high quality card stock & state-of-the-art air-flow inner wrapper, the latter practically impregnable though -- bring scissors or knife before plunking this down on extraneous accessories like chocolate cutting boards), design (Peruvian textiles in a nod to the Tawantinsuyu aka Inca), assiduous seed selection (such as "the rarest cacao on Earth"), vending at choc shows with swag, & a continual social media campaign.

Exactly how much territory it covers on that continuum between a purely promotional brand & a full-on barsmith largely depends on who one talks to. Some bars, maybe; others, probably. That song comes to mind: Probably Maybe.

Then again, Cacaosuyo might just be taking those developmental / incremental steps to getting all the way there... tree to bar or, in the C-spot™ vernacular, Bud-to-Bud™ (as in, cacáo flower bud to human taste buds).

And the curious profile of this bar should incite ever greater interest over its methods.
Appearance   4.7 / 5
Color: aubergine eggplant
Surface: supermodel face; backside hag
Temper: A-1
Snap: hard yet hollow; sanded pinholes on the edge
Aroma   6.9 / 10
quite Peruvian / riverine
sweaty vines
treacle / sap resin-sweetener + that now-global cooked "pork chop" whiff from everywhere that over ferments &/or over-roasts
backs out caramel sludge… a murky quag of a cauldron which oxygen barely penetrates for some clay bottom
Mouthfeel   11.6 / 15
Texture: new sensation: tough powder
Melt: a slow jam in keeping with its Flavor; rounds up to lecithin-like swells (none listed)
Flavor   46.1 / 50
dripping juice (sweet currant) onto a cocoa dust pile -> whispering treacle churns the liquid to jam or, more precisely, jams... reflective of the bar's color… lots of purples 'n blacks 'n browns fruit splay (pomegranate, blackberry, sweet tamarind) -> blossoms all over a berry bush / rush (stems included) + acacia florals -> cream back with spice ender (cinnamon) -> hibiscus & rose hips joins the party -> hits clay dirt in the aft-length
Fermententation never transferred before from such extremes: the ham of the Aroma to a fruit salad in the Flavor
Quality   17.4 / 20
Exaggerated fruit bomb embedded in that prone decoy scent, almost to spiked levels. Ridiculous potency. In animated hi-def techno-color no less.

A bit too much teenage exuberance on the Fruitopia®, guys… errr, suyos. The bar barely contains it, seeping out in all directions as an adolescent who sneaks out of the house in the flimsiest scant gear without mommy seeing.

Nonetheless a fun, sweet, gushy ride. Any fruitier & this traffics in -- 911 -- pedophilia. Makes Madagascar's cacáo out to be an acidic spinster act by comparison. Please, bump it up to 73 or 74% to furnish a little heft / gravitas.

That rather single-sided dimension plus the ancillaries, particularly Texture & less so the Aroma, bar this from greatness… whatever its post-harvesting circumstances.

But this deserves an award…. for suspending reality. The reigning exemplar for the Fruit 'n Flowers category.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa, sugar

Reviewed December 5, 2014

  

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