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Sambirano

by Malagasy
Info Details
Country Madagascar   
Type Brut   (75%)
Strain Hybrid   
Source Madagascar   
Flavor Earthen   
Style Rustic      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Straight & narrow & unredeeming except for ethically grown under Equitrade auspices (supporting important work in sustainable agriculture & economic justice). Moral on one level but, still, mortally deadening on another – flavor: gunpowder.
Appearance   2.3 / 5
genuine feel; looks humble overall
Color: dark dusty alarm
Surface: worn
Temper: flat mat
Snap: loud yet thin w/ grainy edge
Aroma   6.1 / 10
travels far over flat terrain: cocoa, coffee & dried currant; nano-dot of ylang-ylang
Mouthfeel   9.2 / 15
Texture: ironically dry despite a butter swamp
Melt: slow, uneven dispersion
Flavor   32.5 / 50
closely shadows aroma: cold-cocked cocoa idles steady, almost perpetually -> bitter coffee -> rapid evolution to pecan -> turns back to coffee w/ a drop of cream... bitterness an unshakable constant companion -> tallow
Quality   8.7 / 20
Grisly, then tries to butter over the problem, a pound of which fails to sufficiently smother & cover-up bitter roast. A well-endowed varietal turned into a slacktivist that, in a blind-test, IDs as IC (Ivory Coast). Inconsistencies abound year-to-year with Madécasse/Malagasy & this edit shows the co-op flailing to get a grip. Cacáo genes in Sambirano Valley have amply proven their quality (e.g., Guittard’s Ambanja) so someone along the chain needs to put control back into the equation of ‘quality control’.

  

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