Box Chocolate Review


Info Details
Country USA   (NYC)
Style New School      
One piece does not a boxed assortment, let alone a chocolatier, make; no?

Sometimes, in a VSOP (Very Special One-time Performance), it may only take one.

The backstory: during a trip to NYC... show more »
Presentation   3.9 / 5
deceptively small, diminutive to the point of humble... though slightly taller than its width, its true power-reactor status requires a magnifying glass to fully appreciate, especially the restive salt flakes & Cocoa Nibs that top the crown
Aromas   5 / 5
a perfumery: cacáo-flower gardens humidified in citrus mists
Textures/Melt   9 / 10
Shells: sheer fireworks -- a very dynamic outer crunch...
Centers: ... 'n cream-soft interior
Flavor   46.4 / 50
carefully potentiated via deft calibration; spare though by no means stark... basic yet plenteous: just couverture + cream (in a near 1:1 ratio) & salt (add a little supplemental butter & invert sugar for extra Textural finesse) that simply luxuriates in letting each primary element sing out at its natural pitch
Quality   27.8 / 30
Peerless ingredients / components matched by technique & passion for customized detailing. Rarefied realm of the upper echelons. Singular; Exclusive Limited Edition, hence momentary as a glimpse of a firefly.

Couverture: Peruvian Nacional
This solo chocolate flight features a short caramel front as dairy influences the couverture until salt chips away at it... specifically Maldon Sea Salt -- large white flakes of parchment-fine crystals -- whose slight astringency & sharp minerality (attributable in part to being evaporated in stainless steel pans) draws out this chocolate's floral imprint which in turn reacts with them to nucleate a hardwood-smoked Modena (mainly oak)

Reviewed December 21, 2011

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