Box Chocolate Review

Le chocolat de H

Info Details
Country Japan   
Style Classic      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Intensity
Complexity
Impact
REDUX FLASHBACK REVIEW -- below are segments of Le Chocolat de H, initially in 2010, followed by a refresh in 2015. The rating & metrics (upper right) are a composite average of both.

*************************************

Stupendous craft & careful engineering in this box of science. Right up there with swordsmith Masamune Okazaki, cutting a certain kind of coolness that goes to the Zen of the matter. Requires quiet sitting; initial impression very evasive before imprinting infusions, then indelible chocolate after-effects.
Presentation   5 / 5
the improbable koan - warm minimalism; serious HIGH-TONED gravitas; the Lexus of packaging; among, if not the, finest in the world; pieces are global contenders too - millimeter precise fit & finish
Aromas   4.6 / 5
2015
deeply forested florals, nectar, & honey

2010
very true; earth-bound treasure - exuding cocoa creams & massage-quality cacáo-butter/nut oils
Textures/Melt   8.8 / 10
Shells: paper thin
Centers: in the main softly dense; some unctuous
Flavor   44 / 50
2015
slightly amped compared to their 2010 antecedents

2010
quite the opposite of exhilarated or extroverted - very introspective (even the cream seems skimmed & diluted)
Quality   27.1 / 30
2015
Tuxedo chocolate. Luxuriate in it.

2010
Japanese in character: consuming precision & craft; think electronics & cars for which Japan now sets the standard - perhaps less innovative than the Americans & Germans, & shy of Italian level design, but extremely consistent / accessible.
Selections
Couverture:
2015

Trésor du Venezuela -- a studied reserve of orange blossom spice cloistered in a milky Dark robe sans dairy at the subliminal limits

Yuzu et Thé Matcha -- research involving the 400 year-old tradition of the tea ceremony finds that it incorporated yuzu into the service; here H marries the 2 in a fab complex of matcha infused into a Milk Chocolate utilizing Costa Rican cocoa stacked atop a White Chocolate ganache supporting the citric yuzu; exuberant by Choc de H standards… fruit dominates the front lip + entire progression, & yet Milk Choc takes the finish while tea sub-lingers in the aft-chamber thanks to its tannic catechin stamina; stupendous

Hojicha et Praliné Amandes -- regular caramel entrance turns out anything but… a praliné of fine Spanish marcona almonds as well as those of Sicily to create a chewy, fleshy backdrop for the roasted Hojicha tea leaves further smoked by kiln-dried Indonosian cocoa; sorcery

Abricot et Umé -- sweet tenderness of apricot, plum & chocolate fused together – the admixture tantalizing, almost tantric -- accentuated in soft salinity; such serene chops compliments of chocolatier Tsujiguchi Hironobu

2010

Truffe Noir - comes in its own individual bling-box; voluptuously unctuous which restrains, bordering on interferes, w/ the cacáo works, as an impossibly light pastry butter carries the profile until end stage when chocolate tannins - dry & rather astringent w/ black notes (berry + molasses) take over; highly subversive

Trianon - tropical villa of smoked Dark-on-Milk w/ surf-breaking wafers; what starts out a study in texture slips unconsciously into a meditation reaching the still-point of taste

Criollo - stardust silkscreen; softly dense; quiet flavor w/ cream ganache supporting fig-inflected cacáo; unbelievably non-obstrusive

Hime - tea-toned Dark-on-Dark lavender as a violet flower rather than medicinal herb, making for a chocolate hanami (a Japanese ritualized botanical garden)

Rustique - amped a little sweet; classic praline rocher chunked w/ hazelnut; just rocks it

Marbé - after serious rigor, H plays & goes straight for the manga in 3-D (Dark, Milk & White Chocolates) w/ shredded coconut; hilarious

Muscadine - tubed-shaped cylinder; Dark-on-Milk rolled in dust; plain & simple metaphor of cacáo as its own mystical grape seed fruit
Signup for our free Newsletter

Signup for our free Newsletter

Join our mailing list to receive the latest news and updates from the C-spot.

You have Successfully Subscribed!

Pin It on Pinterest