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Milk Chocolate

by Cotton Tree
Info Details
Country Belize   
Type Milk Chocolate   (40%)
Strain Hybrid   
Source Belize   (Toledo)
Flavor Crossover   
Style Rustic      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Toledo... no, not on the shores of Lake Erie (former home to Etch-a-Sketch & piano prodigy Art Tatum) nor the original city in Spain (site of Alcazar & El Greco’s birthplace) but the Toledo River Valley along the Caribbean coast of Belize where the cacáo (pronounced ka-COW) in this Milk Chocolate is from.

Holy Toledo, Batman, I didn’t know chocolate comes from a cow.

Wrong, Robin, but riddle this in the form of a punchline: according to the theory of Darwinism we evolved from apes & amphibians so anything might be possible seeing how we’re basically upgraded monkeys in our glass & steel skyscraper trees, swinging from branch-to-branch, banking on the big one.

Answer: The One is actually a clever binary of the Joker & The Riddler combined, & since cacáo was once used as currency around the jungles & rainforests of Mesoamerica, God is money which means the almighty dollar is... Allah.

By George, in God we trust.
Appearance   3.7 / 5
Color: pink-amber tan, gamboge really
Surface: damaged; scruffed & pocked w/ pinholes
Temper: soft bounce-back
Snap: got some click for a Milk (semi-high butter content)
Aroma   6.9 / 10
aromatically-challenged... nowhere near the sharp cut force of Cotton Tree’s other bars, even it’s Dark-Milk, except for must, & slightly sufurous (a little 1,1-dimethylethanethiol): dry wood, namesake cotton then pulverized rice, buttermilk to cheese funk
Mouthfeel   11.6 / 15
Texture: fast & dry powder keg (high sugar content)
Melt: collapses virtually disembodiied; super clean evacuation
Flavor   49.1 / 50
swings a 2x4 of sapodilla wood, booming the senses, & gives the mouth a thumping, sounding thru the entire length -> tongue-tied by strangler fig -> swells dried papaya -> milk & vanilla instantiate small caramel + more of that bumptious Woody-the-Woodpecker chocolate -> chicle gum chews up & spits out sweet mango & orange for that extra layer of 'starburst-wow' to finish it off
Quality   18.8 / 20
A money bar; the cacáo poured into these molds essentially a printing mint.

Forget the math factored to calculate the rating. This bears immense hedonics for a category that rarely produces any (usually over-loaded with tall or long caramel rolls), with range that never downshifts.

All of it generated from miniscule cocoa mass (only vanilla has less weight in this bar – an unseen formulation til now) which means this is one beast of a bean, a kick boxer really, taking it to the sugar, fermented in a sweat box just renting the sapodilla woods into near volcanic flows.

Cotton Tree understands this cacáo’s DNA to get away with swathing it in so much butter fat.

A Milk unlike any other with none of the charred edges of its big Dark-Milk brother, nor the mechanical smoked-effects in hammy Javas & PNGs (for example, Bonnat’s Asfarth & Maglio’s Papouasia, respectively) or the multi-grain Milk Chocolate cereal of Plantations’ Ecuador.

Yeah, it’s unpolished... there’s nothing sexy to its schlub look & down-home basement-quality texture (without the least grip or astringency by the way – another testament to some modicum of noble pedigree in this strain). Plus, a little too vanillized. Overall flavor more than compensates, however, for these flaws: triple-ball macho (2 below the waist; the other above the shoulders) with a tender sweet-spot (again, so much sugar yet free from cloying).

Lord knows exactly what’s in store in the crap shoot that is micro-batch chocolate. Cotton Tree probably excels at variability & inconsistency - the hallmarks of such bar-smiths - making it all the more exhilarating each & every time one of its wrappers gets ripped open & out comes, at least for this batch, a powerful ka-POW.

ING: sugar, cacáo butter, milk, cocoa mass, & vanilla

Reviewed Autumn 2009

  

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